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SAIL FOR KAIRUA.

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eleven human victims were immolated on his altars. And although the huge pile now resembles a dismantled fortress, whose frown no longer strikes terror through the surrounding country, yet it is impossible to walk over such a golgotha, or contemplate a spot which must often have resembled a pandemonium more than any thing on earth, without a strong feeling of horror at the recollection of the bloody and infernal rites so frequently practised within its walls. Thanks be to God, the idols are destroyed! Thanks to his name, the glorious gospel of his Son, who was manifested to destroy the works of the devil, has reached these heretofore desolate shores! May the Holy Spirit make it the "savour of life unto life" to the remnant of the people!

Leaving Bukohola, accompanied by some natives, I visited Mairikini, another heiau, a few hundred yards nearer the shore. It was nearly equal in its dimensions to that on the summit of the hill, but inferior in every other respect. It appeared to have been crowded with idols, but no human sacrifices were offered to any of its gods.

On returning to Mr. Young's house, I was informed that the vessel would sail that evening for. Kairua, a circumstance I much regretted, as I hoped to spend the Sabbath at Towaihae. Mr. Young, however, collected his family and neighbours together, to the number of sixty. A short exhortation was given, and followed by prayer; after which I took leave of my kind host, repaired on board, and the vessel soon after got uider way.

It was daylight the next morning before we had left Towaihae bay, as the wind during the night had been very light. The sea-breeze had, however, set in early, and carried us along a rugged and barrén shore of lava towards Kairua, which is distant from Towaihae about thirty miles. It being the Sabbath, I preached on deck in the afternoon, from Mark iv. 38, 39, to a congregation of about one hundred and fifty natives, including the greater part of the crew. Many of the people were afterward observed sitting together in small groups, and conversing about what they had heard, though some were inclined to make sport of it.

In the evening we were opposite Laemâno (Shark's Point), but strong westerly currents prevented our making much progress,

On the morning of the 14th, we found ourselves becalmed to the southward of Kairua, several leagues from the shore. The snow-covered tops of the mountains were distinctly seen at sunrise-but they soon after became enveloped in clouds, and continued so through the day. A light breeze carried the vessel towards the land, and at nine A. M. the boat was lowered down, and I proceeded to the shore. On my way I met the governor Kuakini, and Messrs. Goodrich and Harwood, who were coming off in the governor's boat. We returned together to the shore, where I was gladly received by Messrs. Thurston and Bishop, whom I found waiting to proceed on the tour of the island.

In the afternoon a party of strolling musicians and dancers arrived at Kairua. About four o'clock they came, followed by crowds of people, and arranged themselves on a fine sandy beach, in front of one of the governor's houses, where they exhibited a native dance, called hura araapapa.

The five musicians first seated themselves in a line on the ground, and spread a piece of folded cloth on the sand before them. Their instrument was a large calabash, or rather two-one of an oval shape, about three feet high, the other perfectly round, very neatly fastened to it, having also an aperture about three inches in diameter at the top. Each musician held his instrument before him with both hands, and produced his music by striking it on the ground, where he had laid the piece of cloth, and beating it with his fingers, or the palms of his hands. As soon as they began to sound their calabashes, the dancer, a young man, about the middle stature, advanced through the opening crowd. His jet-black hair hung in loose and flowing ringlets on his naked shoulders; his necklace was made of a vast number of strings of nicely braided human hair, tied together behind, while a paraoa (an ornament made of a whale's tooth) hung pendant from it on his breast; his wrists were ornamented with bracelets formed of polished tusks of the hog, and his ankles with loose buskins, thickly set with dog's teeth, the rattle of which, during the dance, kept time with the music of the calabashdrum. A beautiful yellow tapa was tastefully fastened round his loins, reaching to his knees. He began his dance in front of the musicians, and moved forwards and backwards across the area, occasionally chanting

ROUTE TO MOUNA HUARARAI.

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The

tne achievements of former kings of Hawaii. governor sat at the end of the ring, opposite to the musicians, and appeared gratified with the performance, which continued until the evening.

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CHAPTER V..

Proposed route-An ancient fortress-Aid from the governor-Another native dance-Height of Mouna Huararai-Manner of preparing bark for native cloth-Cultivation of the cloth-plant-Method of manufacturing and painting various kinds of cloth-Conversation with the governor-Departure from Kairua-Description of our guide-Several heiaus-Population of the western coast-Tracts of rugged lava-Scene of the battle which took place in consequence of the abolition of idolatry, in 1819-Description of the battle -Tomb of a celebrated priest-Account of Captain Cook's death, and the honours rendered to his remains-Encouraging missionary labours.

July 15th.-OUR whole number being now together at the place where we had previously agreed to commence our tour, we no longer delayed to decide on the route we should take, and the manner in which we should endeavour to accomplish the objects of our visit. Anxious to gain a thorough acquaintance with the circumstances of the people, and their disposition relative to missionary operations, we agreed to travel on foot from Kairua, through the villages on the southern shore, to pass round the south point, and continue along the southeast shore, till we should arrive at the path leading to the great volcano, situated at the foot of Mouna Roa, and about twenty-five miles distant from the sea, which we thought it improper to pass unnoticed. We proposed, after visiting the volcano, either to descend to the shore, and travel along the coast through the division of Puna, or across the interior to the division of Hiro, as circumstances might then render most expedient. From Waiakea in Hiro, we agreed to proceed along the eastern shore, till an opportunity should offer for part of our number to cross over the mountains of Kohala, while the rest should travel along the shore round the north point of the island, and meet their companions at Towaihae, whence they could return direct to Oahu, if a means of conveyance should present itself, or to Kairua, and there wait for a vessel. The plan of our tour being

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thus arranged, we were anxious to receive the aid of the governor in its execution.

I afterward accompanied Mr. Thurston to the well, where we found the natives boring the hard rocks of lava, which they intended to blast. We encouraged them in their laborious work, and then visited the ruins of an old military fortification, formerly belonging to the makaainana (common people, as distinguished from the aristocracy, or reigning chiefs). In those periods of their history during which the island of Hawaii was divided into a number of independent governments under different chiefs, which was the case prior to the reign of Taraiopu, who was king at the time of its discovery by Captain Cook, this had been a place of considerable importance. All that at present remains is part of the wall, about eighteen or twenty feet high, and fourteen feet thick at the bottom, built of lava, and apparently entire. In the upper part of the wall were apertures resembling embrasures; but they could not have been designed for cannon, that being an engine of war with which the natives have but recently become acquainted. The part of the wall now standing is near the mouth of Raniakea, the spacious cavern already mentioned, which formed a valuable appendage to the fort. In this cavern children and aged persons were placed for security during an assault or sally from the fort, and sometimes the wives of the warriors also, when they did not accompany their husbands to the battle. The fortification was probably extensive, as traces of the ancient walls are discoverable in several places; but what were its original dimensions, the natives who were with us could not tell. They asserted, however, that the cavern, if not the fort also, was formerly surrounded by a strong palisade.

In the afternoon, in company with Mr. Thurston, I waited on the governor, according to appointmentmade him acquainted with our arrangements, and solicited the accommodation of a boat, or canoe, to carry our baggage, and a man acquainted with the island, to act as guide, and to procure provisions, offering him at the same time any remuneration he might require for such assistance. After inquiring what baggage we intended to take, and how long we expected to be absent from Kairua, he generously offered to send a canoe as far as

MUSICIANS AND DANCER.

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it could go with safety, and also to furnish a guide for the whole tour, without any recompense whatever. He recommended that we should take a few articles for barter, as occasionally we might perhaps be obliged to purchase our food, or hire men to carry our baggage. After thanking him fór his kindness, we returned.

About four o'clock in the afternoon, another party of musicians and dancers, followed by multitudes of people, took their station nearly on the spot occupied yesterday by those from Kau. The musicians, seven in number, seated themselves on the sand; a curiously carved drum, made by hollowing out a solid piece of wood, and covering the top with sharks-skin, was placed before each, which they beat with the palm or fingers of their right hand. A neat little drum, made of the shell of a large cocoanut, was also fixed on the knee, by the side of the large drum, and beat with a small stick held in the left hand. When the musicians had arranged themselves in a line across the beach, and a bustling man, who appeared to be master of the ceremonies, had, with a large branch of a cocoanut-tree, cleared a circle of considerable extent, two interesting little children (a boy and a girl), apparently about nine years of age, came forward, habited in the dancing costume of the country, with garlands of flowers on their heads, wreaths around their necks, bracelets on their wrists, and buskins on their ankles. When they had reached

the centre of the ring, they commenced their dance to the music of the drums, cantilating alternately with the musicians a song in honour of some ancient chief of Hawaii.

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The governor of the island was present, accompanied, as it is customary for every chieftain of distinction to be on public occasions, by a retinue of favourite chiefs and attendants. Having almost entirely laid aside the native costume, and adopted that of the foreigners who visit the islands, he appeared on this occasion in a light European dress, and sat on a Canton-made arm-chair, opposite the dancers, during the whole exhibition. A servant, with a light kihei of painted native cloth thrown over his shoulder, stood behind his chair, holding a highly polished spittoon, made of the beautiful brown wood of the cordia in one hand, and in the other a handsome kahiri, an elastic rod, three or four feet long, having the shining feathers of the tropic-bird tastefully fast

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