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large volcanic stones imbedded in it, for a distance of three or four miles, they reached the top of one of the ridges on the western side of the mountain.

As they travelled along they met with tufts of strawberries, and clusters of raspberry bushes, loaded with fruit, which, as they were both hungry and thirsty, were acceptable. The strawberries had rather an insipid taste; the raspberries were white and large, frequently an inch in diameter, but not so sweet or well-flavoured as those cultivated in Europe and America.

Between nine and ten in the forenoon they arrived at a large extinguished crater, about a mile in circumference, and apparently four hundred feet deep, probably the same that was visited by some of Vancouver's people in 1792. The sides sloped regularly, and at the bottom was a small mound, with an aperture in its centre. By the side of this large crater, divided from it by a narrow ridge of volcanic rocks, was another, fiftysix feet in circumference, from which volumes of sulphureous smoke and vapour continually ascended. No bottom could be seen; and on throwing stones into it, they were heard to strike against its sides for eight seconds, but not to reach the bottom. There were two other apertures near this, nine feet in diameter, and apparently about two hundred feet deep. As the party walked along the giddy verge of the large crater, they could distinguish the course of two principal streams that had issued from it in the great eruption, about the year 1800. One had taken a direction nearly northeast-the other had flowed to the north-west, in a broad irresistible torrent, for a distance of twelve or fifteen miles to the sea-where, driving back the waters, it had extended the boundaries of the island. They attempted to descend this crater, but the steepness of its sides prevented their examining it so fully as they desired.

After spending some time there, they walked along the ridge between three and four miles, and examined sixteen different craters, similar in construction to the first they had met with, though generally of smaller dimensions. The whole ridge along which they walked appeared little else than a continued line of craterswhich, in different ages, had deluged the valleys below with floods of lava, or showers of cinders. Some of these craters appeared to have reposed for ages, as trees of considerable size were growing on their sides, and

many of them were imbedded in earth, and clothed with verdure. In the vicinity of the craters they found a number of small bushes, bearing red berries in crowded clusters, which in size and shape much resembled whortleberries; though insipid, they were juicy, and supplied the place of fresh water-a comfort they had been destitute of since the preceding evening.

They continued ascending till three P. M., when, having suffered much from thirst, and finding they should not be able to reach the highest peak before dark, the sky also being overcast, and the rain beginning to fall, they judged it best to return to Kairua, without having reached the summit of Mouna Huararai; particularly as they were somewhat scattered, and found a difficulty in pursuing the most direct way, on account of the thick fog which surrounded the mountain.

On their return they found the aid of their pocketcompass necessary to enable them to regain the path by which they had ascended in the morning. After travelling some time, they beheld with gladness the sun breaking through the fog in which they had been so long enveloped and looking over the clouds that rolled at their feet, saw it gradually sink behind the western wave of the extended ocean. The appearance of the sky at the setting of the sun, in a tropical climate, is usually beautiful and splendid: it was so this eveningand from their great elevation, the party viewed with delight the magnificent yet transient glories of the closing day. They travelled about three miles farther, when, being wet with the fog, and weary with travelling, they erected a hut on the lava, and encamped for the night. They succeeded in making a good fire, dried their clothes, and then partook of their refreshment. It consisted of a small quantity of hard taro paste, called by the natives ai paa. A little water would have been agreeable, but of this they were destitute. Having gathered some fern-leaves, they strewed them on the lava, and laid down to repose.

On the morning of the 11th, the party still felt unwilling to return without reaching the top of the mountain, and hesitated before they began again to descend; but having been a day and two nights without water, and seeing no prospect of procuring any in that elevated region, they directed their steps to Kairua.

Two of the party, in searching for a more direct road

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to Kairua, discovered an excellent spring of water. They soon communicated the agreeable intelligence to their companions, who hastened to the spot, quenched their thirst with copious draughts, filled their canteens, and kept on their way to the town.

Owing to the roughness of the paths, and the circuitous route by which they travelled, they did not arrive at Kairua until after sunset, much fatigued, and almost barefoot, their shoes having been destroyed by the sharp projections in the lava.

After uniting with the governor and his family in praise to God, they repaired to their lodgings, somewhat disappointed, yet well repaid for the toil of their journey.

CHAPTER IV.

Departure from Oahu-Occurrence off Ranai-Appearance of Lahaina-Keopuolani, queen of the islands-Native dance-Missionary labours-Buhenehene, a popular native game-Traditions respecting some of the principal idols of Maui and the adjacent islands-Voyage to Hawaii-Visit to an aged English resident-Description of a heiau-Native dance at Kairua.

EIGHT days after the departure of Mr. Thurston and his companions, I followed in a small schooner belonging to Keopuolani, bound first to Lahaina, and then to Hawaii, for sandal-wood. Kalakua, one of the queens of the late Tamehameha, and Kekauruohe, her daughter, were proceeding in the same vessel to join the king and other chiefs at Maui. The trade-wind blew fresh from the north-east, and the sea was unusually rough in the channel between Oahu and Morokai. The schooner appeared to be a good sea-boat, but proved a very uncomfortable one: the deck, from stem to stern, being continually overflowed, all who could not get below were constantly drenched with the spray. The cabin was low, and so filled with the chief women and their companions that, where space could be found sufficient to stand or sit, it was hardly possible to endure the heat. The evening, however, was fine, and the night free from rain.

At daylight next morning, being close in with the west

point of Morokai, we tacked, and stood to the southward till noon, when we again steered to the northward, and at four o'clock in the afternoon were within half a mile of the high bluff rocks which form the southern point of Ranai. A light air then came off the land, and carried us slowly along the shore, till about an hour before sunset, when Kekauruohe said she wished for some fish, and requested the master to stop the vessel while she went to procure them among the adjacent rocks. Her wishes were gratified, and the boat was hoisted out. Kekauruohe and three of her female attendants proceeded towards the rocks that lie along the base of the precipice, about half a mile distant. The detention thus occasioned afforded me time to observe more particularly the neighbouring coast. The face of the high and perpendicular rocks in this part of the island indicate that Ranai is either of volcanic origin, or, at some remote period, has undergone the action of fire. Different strata of lava, of varied colour and thickness, are distinctly marked from the water's edge to the highest point. These strata, lying almost horizontally, are in some places from twelve to twenty feet thick-in others not more than a foot or eighteen inches.

After fishing about an hour, Kekauruohe and her companions returned with a quantity of limpets, periwinkles, &c., of which they made a hearty supper. The wind died away with the setting of the sun, until about 9 P. M., when a light breeze came from the land, and wafted us slowly on our passage.

The southern shore of Ranai is usually avoided by masters of vessels acquainted with the navigation among the islands, on account of the light and variable winds or calms generally experienced there; the course of the trade-winds being intercepted by the high lands of Maui and Ranai.

It is not unusual for vessels passing that way to be becalmed there for six, eight, or even ten days. The natives, with the small craft belonging to the islands, usually keep close in shore, avail themselves of the gentle land-breeze to pass the point in the evening, and run into Lahaina with the sea-breeze in the morning; but this is attended with danger, as there is usually a heavy swell rolling in towards the land. One or two vessels have escaped being drifted on the rocks only by the prompt assistance of their boats.

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At daybreak on the 4th we found ourselves within about four miles of Lahaina, which is the principal district in Maui, on account of its being the general residence of the chiefs, and the common resort of ships that touch at the island. A dead calm prevailed; but by means of two large sweeps, or oars, each worked by four men, we reached the roads, and anchored at 6 A. M.

The appearance of Lahaina from the anchorage is singularly romantic and beautiful. A fine sandy beach stretches along the margin of the sea, lined for a considerable distance with houses, and adorned with shady clumps of kou-trees, or waving groves of cocoanuts. The former is a species of cordia-the cordia sebastina in Cook's Voyages. The level land of the whole district, for about three miles, is one continued garden, laid out in beds of taro, potatoes, yams, sugar-cane, or cloth-plants. The lowly cottage of the farmer is seen peeping through the leaves of the luxuriant plantain and banana-tree, and in every direction white columns of smoke ascend, curling up among the wide-spreading branches of the bread-fruit tree. The sloping hills immediately behind, and the lofty mountains in the interior, clothed with verdure to their very summits, intersected by deep and dark ravines, frequently enlivened by waterfalls, or divided by winding valleys, terminate the delightful prospect.

Shortly after coming to anchor, a boat came from the barge for the chiefs on board, and I accompanied them to the shore.

On landing, I was kindly greeted by Keoua, governor of the place; and shortly afterward met and welcomed by Mr. Stewart, who was just returned from morning worship with Keopuolani and her husband.

We waited on Rihoriho, the late king, in his tent. He was, as usual, neatly and respectably dressed, having on a suit of superfine blue, made after the European fashion. We were courteously received, and, after spending a few minutes in conversation respecting my journey to Hawaii, and answering his inquiries relative to Oahu, we walked together about half a mile, through groves of plantain and sugar-cane, over a well-cultivated tract of land, to Mr. Butler's establishment, in one of whose houses the missionaries were comfortably accommodated until their own could be erected, and where