MAGNIFICENT SPECTACLE. 169 edge only reflected the volcanic fire; and in a little time each cloud passed entirely away, and was succeeded by another. We remained some time, to observe the beautiful phenomenon occasioned by the reflection of the volcanic fire, and the more magnificent spectacle presented by the multitude and brilliancy of the heavenly bodies. The season was solemn and delightful, for it was "Now the hour When Contemplation, from her sunless haunts From what pure wells To point our path, and light us to our home. A tongue in every star, that talks with man, Which must burn on for ages, when the sun Has closed his golden eye, and, wrapp'd in shades, CHAPTER X. Departure for the volcano-Volcanic sand-Superstitions of the natives respecting the ohelo-Description of the great volcano-Pools of waterBanks of sulphur-Appearance of the volcano at midnight-Traditions and superstitions of the natives connected with it-Names of the gods by whom they suppose it inhabited-The little Kirauea-Ancient heiau on the summit of a precipice-Mouna Roa-Probable structure of the island. REFRESHED by a comfortable night's sleep, we arose before daylight on the morning of the 1st of August, and, after stirring up the embers of our fire, rendered, with grateful hearts, our morning tribute of praise to our Almighty Preserver. As the day began to dawn, we tied on our sandals, ascended from the subterraneous dormitory, and pursued our journey, directing our course towards the column of smoke, which bore E. N. E. from the cavern. The path for several miles lay through a most fertile tract of country, covered with bushes, or tall grass and fern, frequently from three to five feet high, and so heavily laden with dew, that before we had passed it we were as completely wet as if we had walked through a river. The morning air was cool, the singing of birds enlivened the woods, and we travelled along, in Indian file, nearly four miles an hour, although most of the natives carried heavy burdens, which were tied on their backs with small bands over their shoulders, in the same manner that a soldier fastens on his knapsack. Having also ourselves a small leather bag, containing a Bible, inkstand, note-book, compass, &c. suspended from one shoulder, a canteen of water from the other, and sometimes a light portfolio, or papers, with specimens of plants besides, our whole party appeared, in this respect at least, somewhat en militaire. After travelling a short distance over the open country, we came to a small wood, into which we had not penetrated far before all traces of a path entirely disappeared. We kept on some time, but were soon brought to a stand by a deep chasm, over which we saw no means of passing. Here the natives ran about in every direction, searching for marks of footsteps, as a dog VOLCANIC SAND. 171 runs to and fro when he has lost the track of his master. After searching about half an hour, they discovered a path, which led some distance to the southward, in order to avoid the deep chasm in the lava. Near the place where we crossed over there was an extensive cavern. The natives sat down on the top of the arch by which it was formed, and began eating their sugarcane, à portable kind of provision, usually carried on their journeys, while we explored the cavern in hopes of finding fresh water. In several places, drops of water, beautifully clear, constantly filtered through the vaulted arch, and fell into calabashes placed underneath to receive it. Unfortunately for us, these were all nearly empty. Probably some thirsty travellers had been there but a short time before. Leaving the wood, we entered a waste of dry sand, about four miles across. The travelling over it was extremely fatiguing, as we sank in to our ankles at every step. The sand was of a dark olive colour, fine and sparkling, parts of it adhering readily to the magnet, and, being raised up in heaps in every direction, presented a surface resembling, colour excepted, that of drifted snow. It was undoubtedly volcanic; but whether thrown out of any of the adjacent craters in its present form, or made up of small particles of decomposed lava, and the crystalline olivine we had observed so abundant in the lava of the southern shore, and drifted by the constant trade-wind from the vast tract of lava to the eastward, we could not determine. When we had nearly passed through it, we sat down on a heap of lava to rest and refresh ourselves, having taken nothing since the preceding noon. About ten o'clock, Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich reached the place where we were sitting. They had heard by some travellers that two or three days would elapse before Makoa would overtake them, and, deeming it inexpedient to wait so long, had procured a guide, and, early this morning, set out from Kapapala to follow the rest of the party. Having refreshed ourselves, we resumed our journey, taking a northerly direction towards the columns of smoke, which we could now distinctly perceive. Our way lay over a wide waste of ancient lava, of a black colour, compact and heavy, with a shining vitreous sur face, sometimes entirely covered with obsidian, and frequently thrown up, by the expansive force of vapour or heated air, into conical mounds, from six to twelve feet high, which were, probably by the same power, rent into a number of pieces, from the apex to the base. The hollows between the mounds and long ridges were filled with volcanic sand, and fine particles of olivine, or decomposed lava. This vast tract of lava resembled in appearance an inland sea, bounded by distant mountains. Once it had certainly been in a fluid state, but appeared as if it had become suddenly petrified, or turned into a glassy stone, while its agitated billows were rolling to and fro. Not only were the large swells and hollows distinctly marked, but in many places the surface of these billows was covered by a smaller ripple, like that observed on the surface of the sea at the first springing up of a breeze, or the passing currents of air which produce what the sailors call a cat's paw. The billows may have been raised by the force which elevated the mounds or hills, but they look as if the whole mass, extending several miles, had, when in a state of perfect fusion, been agitated with a violent undulating or heaving motion. The sun had now risen in his strength, and his bright rays, reflected from the sparkling sand and undulated surface of the vitreous lava, dazzled our sight, and caused considerable pain, particularly as the trade-wind blew fresh in our faces, and continually drove into our eyes particles of sand. This part of our journey was unusually laborious, not only from the heat of the sun and the reflection from the lava, but also from the unevenness of its surface, which obliged us constantly to tread on an inclined plane, in some places as smooth and almost as slippery as glass, where the greatest caution was necessary to avoid a fall. Frequently we chose to walk along on the ridge of a billow of lava, though considerably circuitous, rather than pass up and down its polished sides. Taking the trough or hollow between the waves was found safer, but much more fatiguing, as we sank every step ankle-deep into the sand. The natives ran along the ridges, stepping like goats from one ridge to another. They, however, occasionally descended into the hollows, and made several marks with their feet in the sand, at short distances for the direction of two or three native boys with our ROUTE TO KIRAUEA. 173 provisions, and some of their companions, who had fallen behind early in the morning, not being able to keep up with the foremost party. Between eleven and twelve we passed a number of conical hills on our right, which the natives informed us were craters. A quantity of sand was collected round their base; but whether thrown out by them, or drifted thither by the wind, they could not inform us. In their vicinity we also passed several deep chasms, from which, in a number of places, small columns of vapour arose, at frequent and irregular intervals. They appeared to proceed from Kirauea, the great volcano, and extended towards the sea in a south-east direction. Probably they are connected with. Ponahohoa, and may mark the course of a vast subterraneous channel leading from the volcano to the shore. The surface of the lava on both sides was heated, and the vapour had a strong sulphureous smell. We continued our way beneath the scorching rays of a vertical sun till about noon, when we reached solitary tree growing in a bed of sand, spreading its roots among the crevices of the rocks, and casting its grateful shade on the barren lava. Here we threw ourselves down on the sand and fragments of lava, stretched out our weary limbs, and drank the little water left in our canteens. In every direction we observed a number of pieces of spumous lava, of an olive colour, extremely cellular, and as light as sponge. They appeared to have been drifted by the wind into the hollows which they occupied. The high bluff rocks on the north-west side of the volcano were distinctly seen; the smoke and vapours driven past us, and the scent of the fumes of sulphur, which, as we approached from the leeward, we had perceived ever since the wind sprang up, becoming very strong, indicated our proximity to Kirauea, Impatient to view it, we arose, after resting about ' half an hour, and pursued our journey. In the way we saw a number of low bushes bearing beautiful red and yellow berries in clusters, each berry being about the size and shape of a large currant. The bushes on which they grew were generally low, seldom reaching two feet in height the branches small and clear, leaves alternate, obtuse, with a point, and serrated; the flower was monopetalous, and, on being examined, determined |