SPOT WHERE COOK WAS KILLED.

109

about forty years ago, Tamehameha encamped with his warriors, previous to his decisive battles with Kivaraao, the son of Taraiopu. On reaching the head man's house, about one hundred people soon collected before the door, and I preached to them from Psalm lxx. 4, concluding, as usual, with prayer. We then went into the house prepared for our lodging, which the good people soon made very comfortable, by spreading some cocoanut leaves on the ground, and covering them with a clean mat. The kind host then proposed to fetch a pig, and have it dressed for supper. We told him we had rather he would not do it on the Sabbath, but that, if agreeable, we should be glad to receive one in the morning. After family worship we laid down on the mats to repose, thankful for the opportunities of doing good which we had enjoyed, and for the encouraging attention manifested by the people.

CHAPTER VI.

Visit to the spot where Capt. Cook was killed-Hawaiian notions of a future state-Account of the battle at Mokuohai-Death of Kauikeouli-Former prevalence of war in the Sandwich Islands-Warriors-Warlike gamesMethods of consulting the gods before determining on war-Human sacrifices-Councils of war-Levying armies-Encampments- FortificationsNaval fights-Disposition of forces-Weapons-War-dresses--Methods of attack-War-gods carried to battle-Single combats-Sacrificing the slain -Treatment of the vanquished-Manner of concluding peace.

In the morning of July the 21st, the party at Kamakau's walked through the village of Kaavaroa* to the seaside. The water in some places is deep, and, along the whole extent of the north-west shore, a boat may pull in close to the rocks. The rocks which form the beach, on this and the opposite side of the bay, are not, as was supposed by those who first described them, of black coral, but composed entirely of lava, porous, hard, and of a very dark colour, occasionally tinged with a ferruginous brown, bearing marks of having been in a state of fusion. Part of it has probably flowed through the cavern in which Captain Cook's body was deposited,

* Kowrowa in Cook's Voyages,

as traces of a stream of lava from thence to the plain below are very distinct. The steep rocks at the head of the bay are of the same kind of substance, but apparently more ancient; and judging from appearances, the lava of which they are composed had issued from its volcano before Kearake'kua existed; as part of the coast seems to have been rent from these rocks, and sunk below the level of the sea, which has filled up the indention thus made, and formed the present bay. There are still a number of caves in the face of these rocks, which are seldom resorted to for security in a time of danger, but used as places of sepulture. Several were barricaded, to prevent any but the proprietors entering them, or depositing bodies there. The natives pointed out one in which the remains of Keoua, uncle of Tamehameha, were laid.

Having accomplished the object of their excursion, which was to procure some fragments of the rock on which Captain Cook had been killed, they prepared to

return.

On their return, they exchanged a piece of blue cotton, about three yards in length, for four small idols. They were rudely carved imitations of the human figure; one of them between three and four feet in length, the others not more than eighteen inches.

The house in which Mr. Bishop and myself had lodged was early crowded with natives. Morning worship was held in the native language, and a short address given to the people. A very interesting conversation ensued on the resurrection of the dead at the last day, which had been spoken of in the address. The people said. they had heard of it by Kapihe, a native priest, who formerly resided in this village, and who, in the time of Tamehameha, told that prince that at his death he would see his ancestors, and that hereafter all the kings, chiefs, and people of Hawaii would live again. I asked them how this would be effected, and with what circumstances it would be attended; whether they would live again on Hawaii, or in Miru, the Hades of the Sandwich Islands? They said there were two gods, who conducted the departed spirits of their chiefs to some place in the heavens, where it was supposed the spirits of kings and chiefs sometimes dwelt, and afterward returned with them to the earth, where they accompanied the movements, and watched over the destinies, of their sur

DEATH OF KAVIKEOULI.

111

vivors. The name of one of these gods was Kaonohiokala, the eyeball of the sun; and of the other, Kuahairo. Kapihe was priest to the latter, and, by pretended revelation, informed Tamehameha, that when he should die, Kuahairo would take his spirit to the sky, and accompany it to the earth again, when his body would be reanimated and youthful; that he would have his wives, and resume his government in Hawaii; and that, at the same time, the existing generation would see and know their parents and ancestors, and all the people who had died would be restored to life. These, they said, were all the particulars they knew; but added, that though at Kapihe's suggestion many valuable offerings were made to his god, he proved a false prophet, for Tamehameha died, and did not come to life again.

At breakfast, we were both too ill to partake of the bounty of our host, yet felt grateful for his attention. At nine A. M. we were joined by our companions from Kaavaroa, and shortly after set out on our tour. Mr. Bishop went in the canoe; the rest of us walked on towards Honaunau, a considerable village about five miles distant.

Leaving Keei, we passed on to Mokuohai, a spot celebrated as the place where, in the year 1780 or 1781, the great battle was fought between Kauikeouli,* eldest son and successor of Taraiopu, and his cousin Tamehameha, by which the latter, though before only possessed of two districts, became sovereign of the whole island. During seven-successive days a severe conflict was maintained, with doubtful success. On the morning of the eighth day it was renewed on both sides, and continued until noon, when the death of Kaujkeouli terminated the struggle in favour of his rival. The circumstances attending his death were singular.

Keeaumoku (the father of Kaahumanu, Piia, and Kuakini, present governor of Hawaii), Tamehameha's principal general, with a few of his companions, had advanced a considerable distance beyond the main body of his warriors, and was completely surrounded by Kauikeouli's men. After defending themselves for some time against superior numbers, all the associates of Keeaumoku were slain, he himself was dangerously

* Called also Kivaraao.

wounded by a number of stabs with the páhoa,* and fell in the midst of his foes. His enemies thought him mortally wounded, and were proceeding to despoil him of his ornaments, &c. Kauikeouli approached, and called out to them to take care of the paraoa, a finely polished ornament, made of a whale's tooth, highly valued by the natives, and worn on the breast, suspended by a necklace of curiously braided human hair, stooping down himself at the same time to untie it. Keeaumoku, recovering from a swoon, and seeing Kauikeouli bending over him, made a sudden spring, and grasped him round his neck, or (as some of the natives say) by his long flowing hair, and, being a man of uncommon stature and strength, held him down. Kauikeouli endeavoured, but in vain, to extricate himself from his grasp. At this instant, Tamehameha and his attendants, having heard that Keeaumoku had fallen, hastened to the spot, and one of them, Narimaerua, perceiving the situation of Kauikeouli, rushed forward, aud ran a spear through his body; another stabbed him with a páhoa. He fell upon the body of Keeaumoku, and instantly expired. Keoua, his uncle, who fought near him, was about the same time wounded in the thigh by a spear, and obliged to quit the field..

As soon as the death of Kauikeouli was known, a panic spread through his men, and they quickly fled. Many jumped into the sea, and swam to some canoes lying off the place, and the rest fled to the mountains or the adjoining puhonua (place of refuge) at Honaunau, about four miles distant. Among these was Karaiomoku, then a youth, now principal chief in the Sandwich Islands. Looking one day at the drawing I had made of the puhonua, he pointed with his finger to the place by which he entered when fleeing thither for protection. Tamehameha now remained master of the field, and before evening reached Honaunau, the former residence of the vanquished chiefs.

The scene of this sanguinary engagement was a large tract of rugged lava, the whole superficies of which had been broken up by an earthquake. Since leaving Keei we had seen several heaps of stones raised over the bones of the slain, but they now became much more numerous. As we passed along, our guide pointed out

*The pahoa is a dagger, from eighteen inches to two feet long, made of wood or iron

FORMER PREVALENCE OF WAR.

113

the place where Tairi, Tamehameha's war-god, stood, surrounded by the priests, and a little farther on, he showed us the place where Tamehameha himself, his sisters, and friends fought during the early part of the eighth day. A few minutes after we had left it, we reached a large heap of stones overgrown with moss, which marks the spot where Kauikeouli was slain. The . numerous piles of stones which we saw in every direction convinced us that the number of those who fell on both sides must have been considerable.

The Sandwich Islands, like many other parts of the world, have frequently felt the cruel scourge of war. Their traditionary history, so far as we have been able to trace it, is distinguished by nothing so much as accounts of the murderous and plundering expeditions of one island against another, or the sanguinary battles between the inhabitants of different parts of the same island. The whole group have seldom, if ever, been united under one authority; but, in general, separate governments and independent kings or chiefs have existed in each of the large islands; and sometimes the six great divisions of Hawaii have been under as many distinct rulers or chieftains. Their inclinations or interests often interfered, and almost every dispute terminated in an appeal to arms. Indeed, a pretext for war was seldom wanting, when one party thought themselves sufficiently powerful to invade with success the territories of their_neighbours, and plunder their property. Their modes of warfare must, therefore, necessarily exhibit much of their national character; and having in the course of the narrative already had occasion to describe two of their battles, some account of their system of war will probably be acceptable in this place.

Their armies were composed of individuals from every rank in society. There was no distinct class of men trained exclusively to the use of arms, and warriors by profession, yet there have always been men celebrated for their courage and martial achievements; and there are many now living who distinguished themselves by deeds of valour and strength in the frequent wars which were carried on during the former part of the late Tamehameha's reign; men who left their peaceful home and employment, as agriculturists or fishermen, to follow his fortunes in the field, and resumed their former pursuits on the cessation of hostilities.