public eye, but they are too descriptive of the state of manners there to be wholly omitted. If I have given a colouring to these which is not in conformity with the reigning taste, I request the reader to pass them over in silence also, and attribute both these defects rather to my ignorance of the state of public feeling on these subjects among my own countrymen, from having mixed much more with foreigners, than to any wish of mine to shock the prejudices of the one class, or to offend the delicacy of the other.

With regard to the illustration of biblical and classical research, which is attempted in the following pages, I know of so many learned men who have erred in these rugged roads, that an unlettered wanderer, like myself, could scarcely hope to traverse them without often losing his path. The truly learned will, after all, however, best estimate the worth of the lights which are offered to them, since they know best the toils by which they are elicited, and the value even of the faintest ray to illumine a path that was before obscured by total darkness.

The opportunities which I enjoyed of visiting even those parts of Palestine most familiarly known, were accompanied with more favourable circumstances than usually falls to the lot of European travellers in these regions. Through the greater part of the country I passed as a native of it, wearing the dress and speaking the language of the Arabs, and by these means commanding a free intercourse with the people in their most unguarded moments, and opening sources of information which would otherwise have been inaccessible. From circumstances of a peculiar nature, I had occasion to cross this country in a greater number and variety of directions than has ever been done by any individual traveller before, as far as I am aware of; and although this interrupted the speed of my progress, it was attended with the advantage of enabling me to correct many geographical errors, and to verify the positions visited in these various routes.

But the most interesting portion of these Travels, and that which may be termed entirely new, is the country of Bashan and Gilead,

east of the Jordan. That stream has hitherto been the boundary of all our knowledge regarding the ancient Judea, since no traveller, whose works are published, has yet explored the countries beyond it. Dr. Seetzen, a German, and Mr. Burckhardt, a Swiss, the only persons who had visited them, are since dead, and their discoveries here are scarcely known even by name. Yet, independently of the high interest which this portion of the Jewish possessions cannot fail to excite in the minds of all those for whom the illustration of scriptural topography and sacred history have any charms, its importance, as the seat of ten Roman cities, giving the name of Decapolis to the region in which they were seated, must rouse the curiosity of the scholar to know something of its present state. The positions established here, of some among the threescore cities of Og, the king of Bashan, in the mountains of Gilead, will gratify the biblical enquirer; the ruins of some of the chief cities of the Decapolis will furnish food for the antiquarian; and the Greek inscriptions copied from amidst these ruins, will be interesting to the classical student and the man of letters.

My knowledge of Arabic enabled me also to collect much information as to the names of places that were not actually seen, but were yet within reach of our route; and it will be found that most of the leading features of the topography of this portion of the Jewish possessions, whether mountains, streams, or cities, were in this way identified with those described in the histories of Moses, Joshua, and their successors.

Many of the vignettes are from original drawings, made after sketches taken on the spot; and as this is the least expensive and humblest way of adding graphic illustrations of the text, appropriate subjects have been selected from other sources, but invariably with a view to the elucidations of scenery, costume, or manners, and the accurate representations of places spoken of in the body of the work.

The introduction of a miniature portrait may seem to display an

ostentatious desire of being known by the figure of one's person, as well as by one's labours. The history of it is this. The many amusing anecdotes to which my being dressed in the Turkish manner had given rise, induced the artist, Mr. Jukes, to request that I would sit to him for my picture. When finished, it was pronounced to be so perfect a resemblance, and the costume was altogether so well preserved, that it was determined to have it engraved. There are few persons, I believe, who in reading the travels of any man, have not desired to know more minutely what were the leading features of his person, and what was the description of dress in which he performed his journey. To such readers this, which cannot be surpassed in fidelity, will be acceptable; there are none, it is hoped, by whom it will be deemed intrusive.

The ancient map of Palestine is taken, with very trifling alterations, from D'Anville, as the most generally known and approved authority on this subject, and the one most frequently referred to.

The map of the route pursued in these Travels has been laid down with great care, entirely from my own observations, and, in order to include many places altogether omitted in the ancient map, it is constructed on a larger scale, and the face of the country through which we passed is accurately delineated thereon.

The plan of the ancient Jerusalem, from the best authorities, is that which usually accompanies the works of Josephus; and will illustrate, better than any written description, the changes which have taken place in the site of this city.

The plan of the present aspect of the country, and the chief positions around the modern Jerusalem, has been constructed entirely from my own observations on the spot. It cannot fail to be interesting in itself, and illustrative, as a companion to the preceding one, of the changes which this celebrated capital of Judea has undergone.

The plan of the ruins of Geraza, in the country of the Decapolis, beyond the Jordan, is laid down also from actual observations, cor

rected by two subsequent visits to the spot; as well as the plans of particular edifices, amid the interesting remains of this ancient city. And the Greek inscriptions found on the friezes, columns, and altars there, have been copied with the utmost care, and given as nearly as possible in their original form.

I wish I could have added to these the valuable drawings of my friend and fellow-traveller, Mr. Wm. Bankes, M. P. These I had no time to copy, though I am sure his liberality would have admitted of it; for while he was engaged in taking them, I was occupied in increasing our common store in another way. It is to

be hoped, however, that with the illustration which this gentleman's known talents, pure taste, and extensive erudition, will be able to give to his fine collection of views in this country, and in Nubia, they will not remain long from the public.

The work is thus offered to the public as perfect as the humble talents, the interrupted leisure, and the limited means of the author would admit of its being made. He has endeavoured, however, amidst all these obstacles, to render it worthy of the patronage of men of learning, as well as general readers; and he is confident, that to all those who feel an interest in the elucidation of scriptural history and geography, that portion of these volumes. which treats of the countries east of the Jordan, will be found to possess more merit than the mere charm of novelty; while the pictures of a new country and a new people, which these hitherto unexplored regions unfold, cannot be destitute of interest, even to those who read only for amusement. It is in the humble hope that all classes of readers will find something to repay their search, that the Travels in Palestine are thus offered to the community at large, and in the earnest desire of their approbation, that they are now sent forth to receive their award.