and go down on foot. We proceeded to the Latin convent of St. Giovanni, which occupies nearly the centre of the town, and here we were well received. After the refreshment of a cup of coffee, we walked on the terrace, to enjoy a more commanding view of the surrounding scenery.

The village is seated in the hollow of a deep valley, and has on all sides some portions of cultivated and garden land. To the north is seen the village of Kalioon, through which we passed on our road from Jaffa to Jerusalem. From thence to this village there is a deep ravine, through which runs the torrent or brook of Elah, giving its name to the valley. * It was here that David is thought to have gathered the pebbles with which he slew the great Goliath, as the valley of Elah was the scene of that event. The village of Kalioon stands on the west, and Ain Kareem on the east of this stream, the bed of which was now dry. Mudden, or Modin, a small town on the summit of the south-western hills, was seen from hence, and pointed out to us as being the spot which contained the tombs of the heroical Maccabees. † The house and grotto of Elizabeth were also shewn to us, on the opposite southern hill, but we did not visit them.

After enjoying the evening air of this delicious climate, beneath the clearest sky, in half an hour's walk upon the terrace, we descended into the convent, which appeared to be superior in comfort

See 1 Samuel, xvii.

+ The magnificence of the sepulchres of these Maccabees may be judged of from the description given of them in the apocryphal books. "Then sent Simon, and took the bones of Jonathan his brother, and buried them in Modin, the city of his fathers. And all Israel made great lamentation for him, and bewailed him many days. Simon also built a monument upon the sepulchre of his father and his brethren, and raised it aloft to the sight, with hewn stone behind and before. Moreover, he set up seven pyramids, one against another, for his father, and his mother, and his four brethren. And in these he made cunning devices, about the which he set great pillars, and upon the pillars he made all their army for a perpetual memory, and by the armour ships carved, that they might be seen of all that sail on the sea. This is the sepulchre which he made at Modin, and it standeth yet unto this day." - Maec. xiii. 25-30.

and arrangement to that of Jerusalem, and equal to that of Nazareth.

The church is one of the most simply beautiful throughout the Holy Land. As the friars here are all Spaniards, it partakes more of the style of that nation than of any other, in its ornaments. It is a small oblong square building, with three aisles, the central one of which is crowned by a dome; and the great altar to which it leads, is adorned by some excellent pictures of the Spanish school. One of these, representing Zacharias, the father of John, in his priestly robes before the altar, is particularly fine, and many of the others are superior to those generally seen in this country.

In the recess at the end of the aisle on the right hand, is a smaller altar, and near it a large stone, caged in a grating, famed for some miraculous quality, but I could not learn what, as our old conductor mumbled indistinct Spanish, so that I could scarcely understand one word in five of his discourse.

At the end of the aisle, on the left, is the chief sanctuary of the church, being the grotto in which it is thought that Elizabeth was delivered of John the Baptist, to whom the convent is dedicated. · The descent to it is by a flight of marble steps, and the walls are hung round with crimson damask. The altar itself is ornamented with beautiful sculpture in white marble; and the general appearance of the recess resembles that of the Grotto of the Nativity, at Bethlehem, being, however, far more beautiful. A fine painting represents the Visitation of Elizabeth, and the whole of the church is illuminated by a profusion of rich and mássy silver lamps, producing a chaste yet imposing effect.

The Mosaic pavement of this church is justly admired; and such portions of it as were shewn to us by lifting up the carpets that now covered it, displayed a work of most expensive labour, On the whole, I was more pleased with this village, on account of its situation, the comfort of its convent, and the simplicity of beauty observable in its church, than with any other place that I had yet visited in Palestine.

Leaving this place for Jerusalem, we set out about four o'clock, keeping a north-easterly course, and ascending bare and rugged hills, until we reached their summit in about half an hour, the scenery of the country from every point of view being as uninteresting as could be conceived.

Soon afterwards, we passed on our right the Greek convent of the Holy Cross, a walled building, standing in a little valley, relieved by the presence of olive-trees, and other wood. Maundrell, in assigning the reason of its name and foundation, most satirically says, "It is because that here is the earth, that nourished the root, that bore the tree, that yielded the timber, that made the cross." We did not enter here to be numbered among the "much veryer stocks than the stump of the tree itself," as he justly calls those who fall down to worship the hole in which it stood, but pushed on with all possible speed; yet, though we reached the gates within five minutes after sun-set, we had the mortification to find them closed.

It now became necessary that the warders should obtain the express permission of the governor himself to open them for us, which, after our waiting about half an hour in the cold air, was granted, by the mere mention of my being an English traveller. As I had never yet personally seen the governor, nor even signified to him my arrival in a formal way, it could only have been from the high consideration which our nation enjoys in the East, that such a favour was thus bestowed on a perfect stranger, without a present of any kind being either given or promised to insure it.

JANUARY 25th. We began to prepare for our departure to-day, but new obstacles arose to retard us. Mr. Bankes preferred using hired horses for his journey, but in the present state of discord and agitation throughout the country, no one could be prevailed on to lend us animals for an excursion beyond the mere vicinity of the city.

The Arab, whose son Mr. Bankes had released from prison, being well acquainted with the country east of the Jordan, offered

to take us to Tiberias by that route, on condition of our purchasing horses; and, as he assured us that he could procure men from the Bedouin tribes in the way, who would secure our safe passage through their territories, we were of opinion that we could not do better than accept his offer.

He accordingly set out to seek for horses among his own people, from whom we might get them better and cheaper than in town; as well as to procure a man from the tribe of Zaliane, on the other side of the river, to add to our escort.

Having therefore another day of leisure, I passed it in a visit to most of the remarkable places within the city, beginning first with the Latin convent in which we lodged.

This is a large irregular building, with courts and galleries within, and some small spaces of garden-land without, the whole being so enclosed, as to form a safe retreat in time of intestine trouble or commotion. It stands near the south-west angle of the city, on a sloping ground, and is entered from a hilly street by a large ironcased door, beneath an overhanging building, which darkens the passage, and gives an air of mystery and gloom to the whole. The way beyond leads to a small open paved court below, and other still darker passages lead from this on the right to the first flight of stairs. Ascending these, a range of galleries, winding in various directions, leads to the private apartments and domestic offices of the convent; and courts beyond, and terraces above, afford sufficient space for agreeable walks in the morning and evening, and offer a commanding view of all Jerusalem and the country around.

This edifice is said to be capable of entertaining, commodiously, a hundred persons; and from what I myself saw of its numerous chambers, I should have thought it might lodge even a larger number. The Superior and Procurator, have each his suite of apartments, conveniently furnished, besides which there is a public room of reception for visitors, which is crowned by a dome, and serves also for the library of the convent.

The friars have their separate rooms, furnished with a bed and