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is continued along the beach to the New mole, where an irregular fort is erected, mounting 26 guns. This line wall is divided by a small bastion of 8 guns; and in its rear is a retired work, called the Princess of Wales's lines, in which are several strong batteries for the sea. Near the south bastion, though without the town, is a wharf called Ragged Staff, where the supplies for the garrison are usually landed, being convenient from its vicinity to the victualling-office and storehouses in the town. The communication to this quay is by spiral wooden stairs, and a drawbridge opening into the covered way; in front of which is a small work of masonry mounting 2 guns. At the foot of the stairs is the basin, where shipping take in water. Two tanks are also appropriated to this purpose near the eight-gun bastion.

Within the New mole there is depth of water sufficient for a ship of the line to lie alongside the wharf and heave down. At the mole head is a circular battery for heavy metal, joined to the New mole fort by a strong wall, fraised; having a banquette for musketry, with two embrasures opening towards the bay. This mole, with the Old mole at Waterport, were built for the accommodation of trading vessels: the former, however, is generally occupied by men-of-war; and the latter, not having more than six feet at low❘ water, only admits small craft to the wharfs: merchantmen of large burthen are obliged therefore to anchor about half or three quarters of a mile from Waterport, in seven or eight fathoms. But in time of war this anchorage is commanded by the Spanish forts: they are consequently, in case of a rupture with Spain, under the necessity of removing to the southward of the New mole, where the ground is so rocky and foul that they are often in imminent danger during the strong southerly winds. From the New mole fort to the north end of Rosia Bay, the rock is difficult of access; nevertheless a. parapet is continued, and batteries are erected, as situations dictate. The

works at Rosia are strong, and flank each other. They are close along the beach, which is low, and have a retired battery of 8 guns in the rear.

The rock continues to ascend from the south point of Rosia Bay, by Par son's Lodge (behind which, upon an eminence, is a new battery en barbet, on traversing carriages), to Campguard, and Buena Vista; so called from the beautiful prospect which is there presented to a spectator of the bay and the neighbouring kingdoms of Barbary and Spain. A line-wall is raised, notwithstanding the rock being inaccessible, with cannon at different distances. At Buena Vista there are several guns en barbet, which have great command; and the hill towards Europe is slightly fortified, which gives it the appearance, at a distance, of an old castle repaired. The rock then descends by the Devil's Bowlinggreen, so named from the irregularity of its surface, to Little Bay. At this post, which is totally surrounded with precipices, there is a barbet battery, flanking the works to the new mole: thence the rock continues naturally steep for a considerable distance, when the line-wall and batteries recommence, and extend in an irregular manner to Europa Point, the southern extremity of the garrison, though not the southern point of Europe. The rock from this point is regularly perpendicular to Europa advance, where a few batteries, and a post at the Cave-guard, terminate the works. The fortifications along the sea-line at Europa do not, however, constitute the principal strength of that part of the garrison. The retired and inaccessible lines of Windmill-hill have great command, and, being situated within musket-shot of the sea, are very formidable, and of great consequence in that quarter.

The preceding description, it is hoped, will be sufficiently explanatory. The new bastions on the sea-line were planned and executed by, and under the direction of the chief engineer, MajorGeneral Sir William Green, Bart. Lieutenant-General Robert Boyd laid the foundation-stone of the King's bas

wallis, the governor.

tion, in the absence of General Corn- | Queen's battery (Willis's*), and in the The garrison rock above Prince of Hesse's bastion; also underwent considerable alterations are all so singularly contrived, and whilst he commanded: Windmill-hill of so formidable a nature, that all was fortified, and other changes were direct attacks by land, henceforward, effected at the southward. The im- may be considered as quixotism and provements on the northern front were insanity. carried on under the direction of General George Augustus Eliott since he was appointed to the government. The communication, or gallery leading to St. George's Hall, above Farringdon's battery; Queen's-lines battery, and communication; two works of the same nature, which extend under the

Before the interior part of the place is described, it will not be improper to conclude the description of its outer works, by inserting an abstract of the guns, howitzers, and mortars mounted upon the different batteries. The original, from which this was copied, was taken in the beginning of March, 1783.

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The town of Gibraltar is built on a bed of red sand, similar to those eminences without Southport, which originally extended from Landport to the foot of the ascent to the south barracks. The buildings, before the town was destroyed in the late siege, were composed of different materials, principally of tapia; though, since the English have been in possession of Gibraltar, many have been built of the rockstone, plastered, and blue-washed on the outside, to break the powerful rays of the sun, which otherwise would be too glaring, and prejudicial to the eyes. The modern houses were in general covered with tiles; but the flat terraced roofs remained in those erected by the Spaniards, and in some, the mirandas or towers, whence the inhabitants, without removing from home, had a beautiful and extensive prospect of the bay and neighbouring coasts.

The gallery under the Queen's battery has been continued by General O'Hara, and now communicates with the Prince's lines:

it is called the Union Gallery.

A cement consisting of mortar made of

sand, lime, and smali pebbles, which being well tempered and wrought together in a frame, acquires great strength and solidity.

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Of the buildings that are most deserving notice, the old Moorish castle is the most conspicuous. This antique structure is situated on the north-west side of the hill, and originally consisted of a triple wall, the outer inclosure descending to the water's edge: but the lower parts have long since been removed, and the grand battery and Waterport fortifications erected on their ruins; and the first, or upper wall, would long ago have shared the same fate, had it not been found of service in covering the town from the isthmus, in case of a siege. The walls standing at present form an oblong square, ascending the hill, at the upper angle of which is the principal tower, where the governor or alcaide formerly resided. The ruins of a Moorish mosque, or place of worship, can be traced within the walls; as also a neat morisque court, and reservoir for water: but the latter cannot, without great difficulty, be discovered by a stranger. A large tower on the southeast wall has long been converted into ferent places quarters were fitted up, a magazine for powder; and in difbefore the late siege, for officers and

two companies of soldiers. This castle was erected, as I have mentioned before, by the Saracens or Moors, on their first invading Spain; and the present venerable remains are incontestable proofs of its magnificence whilst it continued in their possession.

The other principal buildings are the convent, or governor's quarters; the lieutenant-governor's house, which is a modern structure; the admiralty house, formerly a monastery of white friars; the soldiers' barracks, victual. ling-office, and store-house. Besides these, there are the Spanish church, the atarasana, or galley-house, and some other buildings, formerly of note, but now in ruins from the fire of the Spaniards during the late siege.*

At the southward are the South barracks and the Navy hospital. The former a stately building, delightfully situated, with a parade in front, and two pavilions detached; the whole capable of quartering 1200 men, and officers proportionate. The latter a capacious pile, well adapted to the purpose for which it was intended: it has an area in the centre, with piazzas and a gallery above, by which the sick may enjoy the sun, or shade, as they think proper: there are apartments for 1000 men, with pavilions at each wing for the accommodation and convenience of the surgeons and their attendants. This hospital was originally erected for the navy, in case a British fleet should be stationed in the Mediterranean; but, on the Spaniards bombarding the town in 1781, the governor removed into it the sick of the garrison. At some distance, in the front of the South barracks, are two powder magazines, in which the supplies from England are usually deposited, before they are distributed to the other magazines. These last were the chief, I might say almost the only buildings remaining on the rock after the late siege; and their preservation was owing to their being kept in constant repair by workmen purposely appointed for that duty.

* Since the peace of 1783, the greatest part of the town has been rebuilt, and (which is much to be regretted) on the old foundations and plan.

Beside the remains of Moorish architecture which have already been mentioned, the following have been esteemed not unworthy of notice. Within the town we find the galleyhouse, and part of the Spanish church; also the bomb-house, adjoining the line-wall: and at the southward, ruins of Moorish buildings are discernible on Windmill-hill, and at Europa. The former are situated on an eminence, but no antiquarian can determine to what use they were appropriated: some are of opinion they were burying-vaults for persons of rank; others suppose them a prison; whilst, in the garrison, the whole is generally known by the name of the Inquisition. At Europa, opposite the guard-house, may be traced the remains of a building erected by the Moors, but used by the Spaniards as a chapel, and called Nuestra Señora del Europa. Along the water's edge, without the fortification, are also several ruins of Moorish walls; and towards Europa Advance is a Moorish bath, called by the garrison the Nuns' Well. It is sunk 8 feet deep in the rock, is 72 feet long, and 42 feet broad, and to preserve the water, has an arched roof, supported by pillars. To the left of this bath is a cave, under Windmillhill, known by the name of Beef-steak Cave, which was a common residence for many of the inhabitants during the late siege.

The hill abounds in cavities, that serve as receptacles for the rain. None, however, is so singular and worthy of notice as St. Michael's Cave, on the side of the hill, in a line with the South barracks, about 1100 feet above the level of the sea. At the entrance are the remains of a strong wall. The mouth is only 5 feet wide; but on descending a slope of earth, it widens considerably, and, with the assistance of torches, the openings of several smaller caves are discovered. The outer cave is about 200 feet long, and 90 broad. The top appears to be supported by pillars of vast magnitude, formed by the perpetual droppings of petrifying water, the whole bearing great resemblance to the inside of a gloomy Gothic cathedral.

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The several gradations in the progress of these petrifactions are easily discovered. In some may be observed small capitals, descending from the roof, whilst proportionable bases rise underneath: others again are formed of very small diameter; and a third class, immensely large, seem to support the roof of this wonderful cavern. Visitors are generally conducted to view this cave; and numbers, with the assistance of ropes and torches, have attempted to explore the depth; however, after descending about 500 feet, they have been obliged to return, by the gross vapours which issued from beneath. It was in this cave that the Spaniards concealed themselves in the siege of 1727, when a party of them, unperceived, got into the garrison, at the Cave-guard, near Europa Advance, but afterwards failed in their enterprise.

There are several other caves on different parts of the hill, in which the water possesses the same petrifying qualities. One under Middle-hill, called Pocoroca, was fitted up, previous to the bombardment, for the governor's reception; but was afterwards converted into a powder magazine, being very convenient for the batteries on the heights.

Amongst the natural curiosities of Gibraltar, the petrified bones, found in the cavities of the rocks, have greatly attracted the attention of the curious. These bones are not found in one particular part, but have been discovered in various places at a considerable distance from each other. From the rocks near Rosia Bay (without the linewall) great quantities of this curious petrifaction have been collected, and sent home for the inspection of naturalists. Some of the bones are of large diameter; and, being broken with the rock, the marrow is easily to be distinguished. Colonel James, in his description of Gibraltar, mentions an entire human skeleton being discovered in the solid rock at the Prince's lines; which the miner blew to pieces: and in the beginning of the late blockade, a party of miners, forming a cave at Upper All's Well, in the lines, produced several bones that were petrified to the

rock, and appeared to have belonged to a large bird: being present at the time, I procured several fragments; but in the bombardment of 1781 they were destroyed with other similar curiosities.

The hill is remarkable for the number of apes about its summit, which are said not to be found in any other part of Spain. They breed in places inaccessible to man, and frequently appear in large droves with their young on their backs, on the western face of the hill. It is imagined they were originally brought from Barbary by the Moors, as a similar species inhabits Mons Abyla, which, on that account, is generally called Ape's-hill Red-legged partridges are often found in coveys; woodcocks and teal are sometimes seen, and wild rabbits are caught about Europa and Windmill-hill. The garrison orders forbid officers to shoot on the western side of the rock; parties, however, often go in boats round Europa Point to kill wild pigeons, which are numerous in the caves.

Eagles and vultures annually visit Gibraltar from Barbary, in their way to the interior parts of Spain. The former breed in the craggy parts of the rock, and, with the hawk, are often seen towering round its summit. Moschetoes are exceedingly troublesome towards the close of summer, and locusts are sometimes found. scorpion, centipes, and other venomous reptiles, abound amongst the rocks and old buildings; and the harmless green lizard and snake are frequently caught by the soldiers, who, after drawing their teeth, treat them with every mark of fondness.

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With regard to the climate of Gibraltar, the inhabitants breathe a temperate and wholesome air for most part of the year. The summer months of June, July, and August are excessively warm, with a perpetual serene and clear sky: the heat is however allayed, in a great measure, by a constant refreshing breeze from the sea, which usually sets in about ten in the forenoon, continuing till almost sunset; and, from its invigorating and agreeable coolness, is emphatically called

the Doctor. The cold in winter is not so excessive as in the neighbouring parts of the country. Snow falls but seldom, and ice is a rarity; yet the Granadian mountains in Spain, and the lofty mountains in Africa, have snow lying on them for several months. Heavy rains, high winds, and most tremendous thunder, with dreadfully vivid lightning, are the attendants on December and January. The rain then pours down in torrents from the hill, and, descending with great rapidity, often chokes up the drains with large stones and rubbish, and sometimes does great injury to the works; but these storms are never of long duration: the sky soon clears up; the heavy clouds disperse; the cheering sun appears, and sufficiently compensates for the horrors of the preceding night. It is during this season that the water that serves the garrison for the ensuing summer is collected. The aqueduct, which conducts it to the fountain in the centre of the town, is extremely well executed; and was constructed by a Jesuit, when the Spaniards were in possession of Gibraltar. It is erected beneath the bank of sand, with out South port, beginning to the southward of the eight-gun bastion, and, collecting the rain-water that filters through the sand, conducts it to the South port, and thence to the fountain. The water, thus strained and purified, is remarkably clear and wholesome.

The appearance of the Rock is barren and forbidding, as few trees or shrubs, excepting palmettos, are to be seen on the face of the hill; yet it is not entirely destitute of vegetation; wild herbs, of different kinds, spring up in the interstices of the rocks, when the periodical rains set in, and afford some trifling nourishment to the bullocks, sheep, and goats that browse upon the hill. The first rains generally fall in September or October, and continue at intervals to refresh the garrison till April or May. When they cease, and the powerful rays of the sun have withered the little verdure that appeared on the hill, nothing offers to the eye but sharp uncouth rocks, and dried palmetto bushes. The soil col

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lected in the low ground is, however, extremely rich and fertile, producing a variety of fruits and vegetables. Colonel James, in his elaborate history of the Herculean Straits, enumerates no less than 300 different herbs which are to be found on various parts of the rock. Gibraltar consequently must be an excellent field of amusement to a botanist.

The garrison, before the blockade of 1779, was chiefly supplied with roots and garden-stuff from the gardens on the neutral ground, which, being on a flat, could almost constantly (even in summer) be kept in a state of vegetation. The proprietors of these gardens were obliged to relinquish them in 1779, when the Spaniards erected their advanced works: from that period General Eliott encouraged cultivation within his own limits by every possible indulgence. Many plots at the southward were enclosed with walls, the ground cleared of stones and rubbish, and soil collected from other parts; so that with assiduity and perseverance, after some time the produce during the winter season was so increased as to be almost equal to the consumption; and probably, in the space of a few years, the garrison may be totally independent, in this article, of any assistance from the neighbourhood.

Gibraltar, being nearly surrounded by the sea, is exceedingly well supplied with fish the John-doree, turbot, sole, salmon, hake, rock-cod, mullet, and ranger, with great variety of less note, are caught along the Spanish shore, and in different parts of the bay. Mackerel are also taken in vast numbers during the season, and shell-fish are sometimes brought from the neighbouring parts. The Moors, in time of peace, supply the garrison with oxbeef, mutton, veal, and poultry, on moderate terms; and from Spain they procure pork, which is remarkable for its sweetness and flavour. Fruits of all kinds, such as melons, oranges, green figs, grapes, pomegranates, &c., are brought in abundance from Barbary and Portugal: and the best wines are drank at very reasonable prices.

The present military establishment

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