ing savage imprecations, and saying, that all who disbelieved in the prophet were dogs. We made a great effort to get him out of the boat; but the reis and crew adhered together so much, that we could not succeed. In this country it is difficult to chastise an insult; for should a traveller so far forget himself as to use a weapon against a Nubian, he would be sure to be sacrificed, as the whole country would rise against him, and escape would be impossible.* A pistol went off twice by accident in the boat during these unpleasant disputes; but, fortunately, did no harm; and Captain Irby had his hand much cut in wresting a dagger from Hassan, who, foaming with rage, was in the act of stabbing Mr. Belzoni. It is not a year ago, since a Russian was murdered a little above Derry: he was in company with another who escaped to Assuan; they were unfortunately unarmed. Our reis and one of the sailors quitted the boat in consequence of our last quarrel. Wednesday, August 6.—We started at dawn on our voyage. About seven the reis returned. He now wanted to land the statues and leave them behind. This we told him he should not do; and advised him to beware what tricks he played us, as we would bring him to an account at Assuan, where, at least, there is some sort of government. Our young mameluke joined us this morning, having been robbed of his money and the reed-raft which he had purchased. About noon we inspected the small temple at Offidena, which has been left in so unfinished a state, that it is difficult to make much out of it. All that is at present to be seen is a small peristyle hall, with fourteen pillars; but neither the columns, their capitals, nor the sides of the hall, are finished. The Greek Christians had converted this temple into a chapel. On the ruined wall of a detached building, there are three figures, evidently not Egyptian. They are in intaglio, and are either of ancient Greek or Roman workmanship. They * This part of the country has, however, been since garrisoned and taken possession of by Mahommed Ali. appear to represent an Egyptian, and a Grecian priest and priestess. In the same tablet is a figure of Isis, with Horus presenting her an offering. The people came and crowded round us here, asking for backsheeish. As they demanded it in a very impertinent manner, we did not give them anything till we had explained to them that a more quiet mode of begging would have got them more money. We endeavoured here to purchase a statue, the same that we had attempted to buy on going up; but, after being detained about two hours, we were obliged to give it up. In the evening we visited the temple at Dekki. The exterior and part of the interior of this temple have not been finished; but the basso-relievo in the interior bears every mark of having been executed by a skilful artist. Only one chamber, however, has been completed with stucco and painting. The whole building is on a small scale, but the plan is very neat; it is approached by a pylon, beyond which is a portico of two columns in front. Within this are three small but distinct chambers: the centre apartment is narrow, with a smaller one on each side. One of these has steps by which you may ascend to the top of the temple. The width of the building is narrower than that of the pylon, and a wall from the exterior of the latter surrounded it. The entrance of the pylon is covered with Greek inscriptions; amongst which, several commemorate the homage paid to the god Mercury, by Greek and Roman visitors; the latter under the reign of Tiberius Cæsar. This temple, like some others in Nubia, has been subsequently used as a Greek chapel, as appears by their daubed paintings. Other ruins are scattered about near the temple: probably those of some small town. Thursday, August 7.-We started at dawn, and visited the temple of Garbe Girshe. The natives here have a very bad character. Last year they murdered a soldier of the pasha's, and not having been punished for it, have become remarkably insolent. Seeing us all armed, and not being numerous themselves, they asked for backsheeish in a quiet manner, and we gave them some. This temple is principally an excavation in the rock, but has been fronted by a built portico or peristyle hall; of which four terms on each side, and two pillars in front, remain in a mutilated state. But there have been many more of the latter; and probably it was approached by a flight of steps preceded by an avenue of sphinxes, fragments of which still remain. The excavated chambers have a black and dismal appearance, and the interior ones have become the habitation of bats. In plan it is not dissimilar to the great temple at AbouSimbel, but much smaller; and the sculpture is unusually bad and heavy. The first chamber is 19 paces by 18, and is supported by six terms, three on each side of the centre, with alto-relievo figures of Osiris in an erect posture; but, instead of the arms being across the breast, with the scourge in one hand and the hook in the other, as at Abou-Simbel, both the insignia are here in the right hand, which is uplifted, while the left hangs down: these are executed in a most heavy and unsightly manner. On either side of this chamber are four niches, in each of which are four alto-relievo figures. The second chamber is smaller, supported by two pilasters, one on each side of the centre. Beyond this is the sanctuary, which is small; the altar remains in it, and four sitting statues at the further end. There is a small chamber on each side of the sanctuary; and side apartments leading from the second chamber. Towards sun-set we inspected the temple of Garbe Dendour. This is a small unfinished edifice. It is built with a small portico of two columns in front, and has two small chambers within it. The sanctuary at the back is an excavation in the rock, before which the temple is built. Before the building is a portal and a square space walled in, probably intended as a quay to protect the edifice from the river near which it stands-Garbe Merie. We passed this place without stopping, there being nothing but the broken wall of a temple with hieroglyphics on it. In the evening we landed at Kalapsche, and went up to see the temple. Here we found all the natives collected together, armed with their daggers, to dispute the entrance. We demanded the reason of their being assembled in such numbers, and what they wanted: they said they must be paid before we entered the temple. We asked the speaker if he meant that he himself was to be paid, or who it was that we were to give money to. They all cried out, that we must pay every one of them. Now, as there were about sixty, and others were arriving, we thought it a bad speculation, and explained to them that we cared very little about going into the temple, as we had already inspected it; but that, if they chose to let us enter, we would give them a reasonable present when we came out. While we were settling this, our janissary thought fit to pick a quarrel with the natives, abusing them all, calling them thieves, and saying we would enter the temple by force. In consequence of this, they all rushed on him with their drawn daggers, and had nearly wrenched his musket from him, when, thinking it high time, we flew to his rescue, and, after much struggling, succeeded in regaining him his arms. We were now glad to get to the boat, being well hooted as we went down ; and, on our shoving off, they pelted us with stones. We fired a musket over their heads, to show them that we had ammunition. Our Greek servant told us, that, while we were absent, one villain had entered the boat with a drawn sword, and was proceeding to plunder it, when, conceiving that this was carrying things a little too far, he pointed a loaded gun at the fellow's head, with a threat that he would lay him dead on the spot unless he desisted. This timely firmness caused him to quit the bark; the crew all the while not interfering or saying a word. We commended the Greek for his presence of mind; but had not so much reason to be satisfied with the janissary, whose unseasonable rashness alone prevented our seeing the temple; this was the more provoking, as higher up the river such a fit of valour might occasionally have been of use. It is a great inconvenience to a traveller in this region that both servants and interpreters always think themselves wiser than their masters; and, therefore, when they are desired to say or do anything, always act according to the dictates of their own judgment, never letting their employer's wishes influence them. When interpreting they never tell you half what is said, and frequently when you explain something which you are anxious should be interpreted, they answer, "Yes, yes, I know it;" never thinking of telling the other party, but taking it for granted you are speaking for their information, not for the purpose of their explaining your words to others. This evening we repassed the gates of Nubia. As the Nile was now high, and the river at this point is much contracted by the approach of the mountains on both sides, the rocks jutting down perpendicularly into the water, our crew, in the hope of obtaining backsheeish, made a great merit of taking the boat through the rapids; but, though noticing all that was going forward, we took care, by an assumed carelessness, to make them think that we were regardless of the whole proceeding, and thus escaped an additional tax. This evening the current drove us past the two small temples of Teffa. Mr. Belzoni, who has seen them, says that only one of them is finished; it is dedicated to Isis, and is about 20 ft. square; it is in a dirty state, being used as a cow-house-not a bad application for a temple of Isis, to whom the cow was peculiarly sacred. The other, which is of the same size, and situated near the former (both being on the western bank of the river and near the water's edge), has never been completed. Just before dark we went to visit Hindaw. The ruins in this quarter are very extensive, but nothing can be distinctly made out as to the nature of the buildings, which, whatever they may have been intended for, have never been finished. Beginning from the southward, the first object is a great square, situated on a bed of rock surrounded by an unfinished wall, built of immense blocks of calcareous stone. On the north side, in the middle, there is a portal similar to those by which the Egyptian temples are generally approached the top of the door-way is ornamented with the winged globe, and a figure of Isis, in basso-relievo, appears half finished on the side of it. It is not improbable that this wall (which incloses a space about half-amile square) may have been intended to surround several temples; its extent being too great for us to suppose that only one was intended to be constructed within it. Further north is an extensive quarry, from which, it is probable, the stone for these buildings was obtained. Within this quarry we perceived a doorway carved in the Egyptian style; and on each side of it a convexity, as if it had been intended to carve out pillars. There is also a niche, with a bust of Roman execution on each side, and forty-two very perfect Greek inscriptions, written in the time of the Romans, to commemorate the visits of various generals, and other persons of distinction, who had come here to pay their vows. Mr. Bankes copied all these. To the northward of the quarry, on an eminence, is a small unfinished portico, of two pillars on each side, and two in the front; the capitals are finely executed: those of the former combine the lotus flower with the vine, date, and doura grain ; the latter have a quadruple head of Isis. Friday, August 8.-At noon we inspected the temple at Daboude; it is situated about two hundred yards from the river side, and is altogether unfinished. The approach is by three portals. The temple consists of a portico, composed of four columns in front, and a wall of intercolumniation reaching half way up the pillars. Within, there are two chambers and a sanctuary: the latter contains two handsome monolithe cages of red gra D nite, between 6 and 7 feet high, and about 4 broad; these are the only objects of interest which the temple contains. Towards the river side, on the banks, are the remains of a quay. To-day the murderer quitted the bark, not daring to show himself near Phila: he did not appear ashamed of the crime which he had committed. cataract. At in the two galleries is occasioned by a "République Françoise, An 6, Le 13 Messidor. Une Armée Françoise due à Alexandrie. L'Armée ayant mis, commandée par Bonaparte est descenvingt jours après, les Mamlouks en fuite dant la première Division, les a pouraux Pyramides, Dessaix, commansuivis au-delà, jusqu'aux Cataracts, où il est arrivé le 13 Ventose, 3 Mars. Les Généraux de Brigade." Here follow the names. "An 7 de la République, In the evening our crew stopped at their village, and brought a scabby, half-starved lamb as a present to us. We could not forbear from laughing, as it was really the most pitiful animal we had seen in the country; and it must have put them to no small trouble to find such a specimen. We refused the present most stoutly, but it was all in vain; they forced it into the boat. At three we arrived at Philæ, called by Hamilton and Burckhardt, Giesiret el Berbe el Ghassir, or Giesiret Anas el Wodjoud. The first of these names means the Island of ruined Temples not an inapt denomination. Philæ is the easternmost of a group of islands and rocks which compose the first It is about half-a-mile long, rather high, and, being entirely covered with magnificent ruins, has a grand and imposing appearance: the lofty pylons are seen at a great distance, and produce a fine effect. The island divides the Nile into two streams, and the water, finding so great an impediment in its course, rushes by with considerable velocity. The principal edifices are approached by an avenue formed on each side by a gallery supported by columns, the capitals of all which are different. There are thirty of these pillars on the left, and on the right only sixteen, with cells (probably the habitation of the priests) within them; the greater part of these lastmentioned columns are finished, but there are some incomplete. These show that the columns were first constructed and erected in the rough, and that the sculpture was finished after-memorating the worship of Greek and wards. The rough outlines which we found traced were very curious; and, neatly as all the capitals are sculptured, the artist who finished them had but a rough and coarse pattern to guide him. The difference in the number of columns de Jes. Chr. 1799." It was in the portico of this temple that we noticed the elephant as an hieroglyphic. This is the only instance of our finding this symbol in the country. The portico leads through the left end of the great pylon, after which there is a handsome court or hall, and then you enter the temple. We here first noticed a singular imperfection or peculiarity in the sculpture of the large figure of Isis in the great pylon-she has two left hands. We have since observed the same singularity in other places. The French work has given some of them. In all parts of the island, on the sides of the temples, are Greek inscriptions, com Roman generals who have come to pay their vows to Isis and Serapis. Phila is said to have been the spot where Isis was appeased of her wrath for the violence offered by Typhon to her busband; and hence we find no less than four temples dedicated to her in so small a compass. Before I quit Nubia, I will add a few observations on the country and its inhabitants. At present only two English travellers have been in this country. Mr. Hamilton, Colonel Leake, and Captain Hayes, visited Daboude, but were prevented from advancing further by the united efforts of the cashiefs, and the mameluke bey, Elfi. Mr. Hamilton's book contains the result of the mission into Upper Egypt. The French had penetrated only as far as Phila, where they left the inscription just given. Several years elapsed before any European travellers entered Nubia, when Burckhardt led the way, and was followed by Mr. Legh and Mr. Bankes: the former has published. as an integral part of the state; this is evident from the figures and devices in the temples resembling in every respect those of Egypt. Of the land in Nubia which might be cultivated, I do not suppose one-fourth is made use of; this indifference to agricultural pursuits proceeds from the despotic nature of the government, where the authorities think of nothing but making the most of their situations whilst they hold them, consequently their sole aim is to get money, no matter how it is procured. A licentious soldiery are ever ready to contribute to the oppression of the inhabitants, more especially when the funds from whence they derive their own pay and emoluments are drawn from this source. observation applies to Egypt as well as to Nubia, only that the fact is more easily perceived in the latter country. The consequence is, that the date palm, the fruit of which ripens without cultivation, and which pays no duty, is here more encouraged than any other production, and the date may safely be called the staple of the coun This Immediately after passing the first cataract, the traveller observes that the Mockatem and Lybian chains of mountains close in upon the Nile: this remark is applicable, with few exceptions, throughout Nubia, at least as far as we went; there is, consequently, only a narrow strip of culti-try. The doura, which is the Holcus vated land on either bank of the river. The ancients, to preserve the soil and prevent the rapid stream from washing away the land, constructed immense walls, or, more properly speaking, piers, built of huge masses of stone piled one on the other, and reaching into the river from the foot of the mountain, or rather the limit of the Nile's rising, to the point of the water's lowest ebb. These piers are invariably built at right angles with the stream, and are generally about 15 ft. wide. As they are very numerous, and as the labour and expense of their construction must have been prodigious, some idea may be formed of the importance that was attached to them. From the number of temples, and from the fine plains of loamy soil, now generally covered with a surface of sand a foot thick, which makes them look like the rest of the desert, there is every reason to suppose that this country was once both populous and flourishing. At the time of the height of Egyptian power, it was considered arundinaceus of Linnæus, is the only grain to be met with; it makes very good bread, but they grow barely sufficient for their own subsistence: indeed, it is so prized, that they frequently prefer it to money in payment for the articles we purchased. The miri, or land-tax, is paid at the rate of ten dollars per sackey, consequently every sackey which the Nubians build becomes an additional inducement to the Turks to come into their country; and it is only the scantiness of the produce which deters the pasha from quartering his troops on them; this the crafty natives are well aware of, and take care to put no temptation in his way. The present mode of collecting the miri in Nubia, is by sending thither annually about two hundred Turkish soldiers in boats, and the money they get hardly defrays the expenses of the expedition. The duty is not paid in cash, but in doura, which they purchase back from the Turks; but they generally contrive that the soldiers do not return very full-handed. These |