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service we might require. We thanked him, and renewed our promise of apprising him when we should be near the door, that he might not think we intended to open the temple secretly during his absence; for they all believe we expect to find money. Daoud now departed. We gave our crew two piastres each man, and one to each of the boys-there were six men and two boys --and told them that if they consented to work at similar hours, and in the same manner as we did ourselves, they should daily receive the same sum. These conditions were acceded to with great apparent eagerness.

Thursday, July 17.- We started at the dawn of day and worked hard, fourteen in number, till nearly nine o'clock, when the sun being at a considerable height, and shining directly on us, the heat obliged us to desist. We had made considerable progress; and as we found that all our efforts were directed in the right way, we had reason to be well satisfied. The crew worked tolerably. Hassan was on the opposite side of the river getting bread made, and looking out for a sheep. We dined at one, and at three renewed our operations. One of the crew did not come this evening. We took no notice of it, resolving to give him only half a day's pay. The rest worked pretty well. We continued till starlight, and made great progress. At the latter part of the evening, Hassan returned, but brought nothing with him.

July 18. In the morning, at the very first dawning of day, we again started to our work and called the crew; but, as we expected, from the moment Hassan arrived, they all refused to work, alleging that the pay was not sufficient; that it was now ramadan, and that they ought to have thirty piastres per day. Our janissary now informed us that they had spoken of this aloud in the night in order that he might tell us. Seeing them in this humour, we told them that those who did not choose to work might let it alone. At half-past eight we left off, having done nearly as much work as if they had been with us: indeed we

were astonished to see what steady persevering labour would do. One of the Abou-Simbel men came this morning and worked very fairly, promising to bring ten more on the morrow: there came also a chief from the opposite side of the river with an offer of twenty men. We told him our terms of two piastres per day for each man, and that it was our intention to pay the money into the men's own hands, as we learnt that the cashiefs and chiefs had given each labourer one piastre only, and retained the other for themselves. At three, we renewed our operations. A few of the crew came, but worked very badly ;—we left off at dark.

Saturday, July 19.-We commenced our labours before daylight. Only two of the crew came, and three other lads. The promised men from Abou-Simbel and the opposite side of the river not arriving, we continued working till half-past eight; when, just as we were about to leave off, Halleel Cashief and his court of bullies made their appearance in a boat; and, landing near our bark, came up to see what was doing. Immediately we saw them approaching we left off work, and, suspecting their roguish intentions, to foil them we went to bathe. The men from the opposite side of the river, about thirty in number, now arrived, but without tools: this disappointed us a little. On coming out of the water, we went to visit Halleel Cashief, as a compliment, and to keep up appearances. While so doing, a desperate dispute took place between our janissary and Hassan, who seeing the former was not armed, chased him into the boat with his drawn dagger, uttering savage imprecations. Halleel made a pretence to interfere; but soon after, while we were settling the dispute, he sneaked away in his boat with all his attendants, without taking leave: indeed he was off before we were aware, and we were very glad to be rid of him.

Our Greek servant now informed us that Halleel had asked for some coffee; and, on being told there was none, had desired the servant to say nothing to us about his having asked

for it. He was very inquisitive about
the stay we intended to make; and
seemed desirous we should call on him
at Derry on our return, no doubt in
hope of getting something more. The
men worked pretty well to-day. The
Abou-Simbel man, who had promised
to bring his nine assistants, never made
his appearance.
This we clearly saw
was Halleel's doing. At night, when
paying the men, we had a dispute with
some of them, who endeavoured to
impose on us by false tickets. These
tickets were slips of paper on which
Mr. Belzoni wrote his name, and issued
them out to the workmen in the morn-
ing; and on producing them in the
evening they received their pay. This
day the Darfur caravan, of four thou-
sand camels, laden with gum, ivory,
ostrich-feathers, tamarinds, rhinoceros'
horns, slaves, &c., passed on their way
to Cairo. The mamelukes had made
them pay 9000 dollars (upwards of
20007.) at Dongola. Some of the jelabs
who led the caravan came to see our
operations. They had long hair
greased with oil, and hanging down in
ringlets some had it plaited. They
wore sandals, had each a long spear,
and altogether were singular figures.

serious mischief from ensuing. At night Daoud Cashief's messenger left us, having failed in an attempt to beg a pipe for his master.

Monday, July 21.-This day no men came from the opposite side of the river, but we had about forty from Abou-Simbel. They worked tolerably well, and brought to light the bend of the right arm of the statue, to the north of the door, which was much broken. The discovery was highly satisfactory to us, as it proved that the statues were seated, and, consequently, that we should not have to dig down so deep as if they had been standing figures. In the evening, the men worked pretty well; and towards the close of the day, we uncovered a projecting part of the wall roughly chiselled, uneven in its surface, and having every appearance of unfinished work. As far as we could see down, which was not more than six or eight inches, it still continued the same. The projection was about four inches from the plane surface of the front of the temple, and it appeared to fill up the whole space between the two centre statues. This being exactly the place where we expected to find the door, the sudden change from a flat

uneven surface, was precisely the circumstance most calculated to give the impression that the temple was unfinished, and that there was no door. Indeed we could not in any other way account for an appearance so extraordinary and unexpected. Discouraging as this discovery was, we nevertheless resolved to proceed with our work, and to dig down till we had ascertained, beyond all possibility of doubt, whether there was an entrance or not.

Sunday, July 20.-At twilight we renewed our labours, and had sixty-finished exterior to a coarsely-chiselled four men to work. The crew stimulated them by a good example, which, coupled with our own personal attendance, produced a good morning's labour. At three p.m. we recommenced our operations and got on tolerably well. This evening one of Daoud Cashief's staff arrived, with some aqua vitæ and a few dates as a present. He also brought Irby and me some new Nubian clothes. Two suits cost us twenty-four piastres, or twelve shillings; double what we had given for better things of the same kind at Momfalout. In the evening our cook threw a kettle of water in the face of a fellow who asked him for money in a threatening manner. This truly cook-like mode of assault un-nied with the present of a water-melon. sheathed the Barbarin's sword (for the most trivial occurrence produces their drawn weapons), and it was with difficulty we could prevent some

About eleven o'clock at night, a boat arrived from the opposite side. They did not make any noise; but the reis sent word that he had brought a sheep for us. The message was accompa

Tuesday, July 22.-At daylight we found a great assemblage of people, the boat having brought them over in the night; and at the same time there

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arrived a considerable number of persons from Abou-Simbel. As these two parties amounted to treble the number we wanted, we retired to our boat to avoid disputes, leaving thirty tickets with old Mouchmarr, with instruction to employ only that number. Returning in about half an hour, we found he had only given out twenty of the tickets, keeping the other ten to himself; and so intending to pocket twenty piastres. While we were settling this with the old rogue, a violent quarrel ensued between the natives of AbouSimbel and the party from the opposite shore, as to who should be employed; and, after much noise and confusion, hostilities having commenced in a slight degree between the parties, the whole of them, amounting to nearly two hundred, departed, shouting and hooting, the stronger party not permitting the Abou-Simbel people to work. As they retired, our crew serenaded them with repeated cries of "barout, barout," which means powder, powder, an article they are not very partial to. In the evening we renewed our labours without any assistance; but soon had the crew and about twenty volunteers, who worked very well, considering we had only three implements, the Abou-Simbel men having taken away four out of the seven we had hitherto used. The instrument was

of this form, and the mode of working was to fix it perpendicularly in the sand, and then to pull it forward by a cord attached to it; one person was stationed at the handle to fix it in the sand, and another at the cord by which it was pulled forward. Instead of one, the Arabs generally employed from four to six men at the cord. This evening we came to the chair of the statue; but still there was no indication of a door; the unfinished work continuing, though the figure, drapery and all, was perfectly finished, as far as we could see down.

Wednesday, July 23.-It was curious to observe in the morning, on the

smooth surface of the sand, drifted by the night breeze, the tracks of the snakes, lizards, and other animals, which had come down to the water's side during the night to drink; and we could plainly discern the traces of their return to their solitary haunts in the desert. Sometimes these tracts indicated the presence of reptiles of considerable size; and we now could easily account for the dread our guides expressed of walking near the water's side on the night we returned from the second cataract. We renewed our operations at the very first appearance of day, and soon had about twenty-six workmen, together with the crew. Between eight and nine o'clock, as the people were working, we perceived a boat full of men coming over from the opposite side. As soon as the AbouSimbel people made them out, they all set off with old Mouchmarr at their head; the latter saying he knew who they were, and would go and treat with them, as they were coming to prevent our work. The old fellow, it appeared afterwards, was more intent on his own safety; as both he and his party went and hid themselves in caves in the mountains. Suspecting something, we sent for all our arms from the boat, and waited the event. The newly-arrived party now made their appearance, about forty in number, armed mostly with muskets, pistols, sabres, and pikes; they were much better dressed, and made a better figure than the attendants of Daoud and Halleel. There were two with white turbans, who appeared to be the leaders: these approached in advance of their attendants; and, after the usual salaams and ceremony of salute, seated themselves near us, and presented us with two sheep, which their men had brought with them. We now desired our janissary to ask them the intention of their visit, and to tell them we had nothing to dispose of, having given all we had to spare to the two cashiefs below. They replied that they wanted nothing; that they were in the employ of the pasha; that their office was to keep order and tranquillity in the country, and that they wished to know if any

we were our own masters, we might give them something, but never through fear of them, or to gain their favour. Soon after, the two cashiefs and their gang proceeded to Abou-Simbel. We now learnt that they were Mahommed and Ali Cashief; that they lived a little above Derry, on the opposite side of the river; and were at war with Daoud and Halleel, in consequence of their

kilied some relation of Ali's many years ago. This is what the Barbarins call the "warfare of blood for blood;" and it always lasts till an individual of one family is sacrificed to appease the other.* Sometimes this hostility exists for many ages between families; and it is for this reason that a murderer, who is one of our crew, dares not go to Philae or the neighbourhood of Assuan, where he committed the crime.

obstacles on the part of the inhabitants rendered their assistance necessary, as they were ready to be of service to us, hoping that on our return to Cairo, we should not fail to speak favourably of them to the pasha. We replied that we were going on tolerably well, and that we did not stand in need of any assistance. After sitting about half án hour, they went down to the other temple, followed by all their attend-grandfather (Hassan's father) having ants, and soon after sent our Greek servant up with a message, "that they were at war with the other two cashiefs; that they were greater than they; that they were the governors of this country; that when the others killed one man, they could kill two; in short, that we had given a gun, shawl, soap, and tobacco, to both Daoud and Halleel, and why, they wished to know, was nothing given to them, who possessed double the authority in this country, and could prevent our labour whenever they pleased? that they must have the same, and more presents than we had already given, or that we should not open the temple." They also wished to know under what authority we acted, and desired to see our firman. We replied to these menaces by the same statement we had made on their arrival, viz. that we had already given away all we had to give ; and we added, that as we had both the pasha's and Deftarda Bey's firman for doing what we were about, any violence offered to us would be sure to reach their ears. Their answer was that they cared nothing about the pasha. On seeing the firmans, they said they were good for nothing, being written in Turkish, not Arabic; that they had no Turkish interpreter; and that were the firmans even in Arabic, nothing but presents would induce them to permit us to proceed. The crew now thought it a favourable opportunity to ask for one of the sheep (for each of which we had given ten piastres), but we refused their request, saying, that they were mistaken if they thought it a proper time to ask gifts, when other people were endeavouring to plunder us; that as soon as the banditti were gone, and

At three P.M. we renewed our operations, and had a considerable number of assistants. It was truly ridiculous to see old Mouchmarr now make his appearance, with his matchlock in his hand, and a few of the Abou-Simbel people. He took especial care to examine both up the river and down, to be sure that the cashiefs were well out of sight; and when he found the coast clear, he came to us to relate how his people had been in the habit of making slaves and prisoners of the other party; what numbers they had bound together and thrown into the Nile, &c. We rallied him about his promising to treat with them. We found that the cashiefs had prevented many of our assistants from coming, and that they had plundered the whole country, taking two sheep from every sackey, and ten piastres from those who could not procure the animals. We also learnt that a fine of four dollars (thirty-six piastres) was to be levied on every one who came to our assistance. evening our men worked very well; as they did not belong to Abou-Simbel, they knew they were out of the cashiefs' reach.

This

*"The revenger of blood himself shall slay take no satisfaction for the life of a murderer." the murderer." Numbers, xxxv. 19. "Ye shall Ibid. 31.

Thursday, July 24.-At dawn of day we went to work again; as we had broken our water-jars we asked the crew for our ludri which we had lent them; but Hassan said it was ramadan, and that as they could not drink water in the day-time, they wanted our ludri to keep it cool for them in the evening, and that they would return it when they got to Phila. We gave them to understand that we liked cool water as well as they did, and desired the janissary to take the skin without further ceremony; asking them at the same time if that was gratitude for the sheep we gave them yesterday. Hassan answered, that the sheep was lean and good for nothing, or we should not have given it. This morning we had about twenty workmen, but neither Mouchmarr nor the Abou-Simbel men came. After we had worked about an hour, a party of about thirty came from the opposite side and volunteered to assist as they were more than we wanted, and came late, we told them we would give them only one and a half piastre each: this they rejected at first, but afterwards accepted. An hour afterwards four other men came and solicited employ: these we refused, when one of them displaying a dirty white turban as a flag, drew the whole party off with a shout. In a quarter of an hour, however, they returned; and the work went on pretty well, the armed ruffians not making their appearance. In the evening the people worked badly, being so numerous that one skulked behind the other.

Friday, July 25.-We got up at dawn of day and found one hundred men assembled, though the night before we told them that we did not want any more assistance. We explained this to them again, adding, that at most we could not employ more than twenty. They replied, that we must employ them all or none. Seeing them in this mood, we returned to our boat, resolving to wait till they were all gone; and knowing that the heat of the sun at nine o'clock would drive them away. After much noise amongst themselves, and numerous ineffectual parleys, they all set off, taking all the implements

with them, and threatening our crew that, if they assisted us, they would acquaint Daoud and Halleel Cashief of it; thus showing that these brothers had ordered that no assistance was to be rendered us. Our sailors laughed at them, saying, they cared nothing about the cashiefs or any one else. Soon after this, the whole rabble crossed the water, having a dirty white turban (the prophet's banner) hoisted. At three we renewed our work with six instruments which we had made ourselves. The crew, and also that of another bark came, and assistance was offered by a few others. We got on tolerably well.

Saturday, July 26.-At dawn of day we went up to our employment, with the same hands we had the preceding evening, in all about twentythree persons. Our servants had another quarrel with the crew. A mameluke arrived from Dongola; he reported his countrymen in great misery at that place. We now learned that Mahommed and Ali Cashief were gone down the river again with their plunder. In the evening we renewed our operations. A man who had received money for our bread on the opposite side of the river, refused to bring it: we had a dispute in consequence, and, after much noise and confusion, half the quantity we had paid for was brought. We found the price of everything we bought had doubled since our arrival; the natives hoping by these means to force us to relinquish our work; and, with our eyes open, we were obliged to submit to the imposition.

Sunday, July 27.-At dawn of day we set to work again, and had only two assistants besides the crew, who worked remarkably well. Several volunteers came, but we rejected them on account of their laziness. One of our two assistants sang a song to cheer up the crew: this is their constant custom when working; the words were as follows: "Oh! Nubia, my country, thou smellest like a rose; when I sleep I dream of thee, and thou appearest a garden full of flowers." Our ideas of Nubia, where a flowering shrub is

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