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bathed in it; the water was bitter and buoyant. Those of our party who could not swim, floated on the surface like corks; on dipping the head in, the eyes smarted dreadfully, and we were much surprised to observe, on coming out of the lake, that the water did not evaporate from the body, as is the case on emerging from fresh water, but adhered to the skin, and was greasy to the touch. At night we returned to

Jerusalem.

We propose starting to-morrow with two Arabs to make the tour of the Dead Sea, and search for the sites of the cities that are known to have stood in that direction. Our party will consist of Messrs. Legh and Bankes, with their attendants, and Captain Irby and myself. We have plenty of arms, and shall muster altogether eleven persons, including two Arabs. The trip will probably take us about three weeks. We have all dressed ourselves as Arabs of the desert, to excite less observation.

portico, while from its construction there is every reason to suppose that a corresponding entrance would be found at the other end, which is now filled with rubbish. Mr. Bankes was so thoroughly convinced of this, that when at Constantinople he used every exertion, but in vain, to procure a firman authorising him to excavate and ascertain the fact. We now endeavoured to obtain permission from the governor of Jerusalem to dig there, but without success. As we could not procure legal authority, we determined on prosecuting the undertaking secretly in the night, and accordingly purchased privately some pickaxes and other implements. Late in the evening we quitted the town, singly, and from different gates, to avoid suspicion; and assembling at the rendezvous after dark, found that we mustered a party of ten persons, viz., Messrs. Bankes and Legh, Captain Corry, and ourselves, together with five servants, including two of Lord Belmore's sailors, Lord and Lady Belmore and their whom his lordship had allowed to join party have been here about three us. We divided our party into two weeks They came from Cairo by land, watches, and worked hard four hours having taken the same route as we did. at a time during the whole night, digTheir party is very strong, and they ging and clearing away the rubbish. had the brother of a famous Arab We were obliged to station one of the chief to protect them. They are all servants as a sentinel near the road now attiring themselves as Arabs, and side, to apprise us of the approach of are going to visit Baalbec, Damascus, any one. In the morning we had re&c., after which they embark in his moved the rubbish to a depth of about lordship's yacht for Europe. The friars 10 ft., when we came to an immense of the convent had a serious dispute in block of stone, apparently in the very the Holy Sepulchre the day before yes- spot where we expected to find the terday. They were performing one entrance to the tomb. As we were of their ceremonies, when the Greeks unable to move this mass, we returned attacked them, wounding several of to the city, pretty well fatigued, having them. There has been much disputing been obliged, for want of spades, to before the governor in consequence, clear away the rubbish with our hands. and a Tartar has been sent with their The next day Captain Corry, Mr. complaints to Constantinople. In Bankes, and Mahomet his janissary, Maundrell's time there was a similar acting on the suggestion of Lord Belfray between the Greeks and Latins, more, succeeded in breaking the stone and the jealousy has existed ever since. by heating it, and then pouring cold A rather singular adventure befel us vinegar on it; but, unfortunately, while at Jerusalem. There is amongst shortly after this was done, our prothe sepulchres, which travellers have ceedings were discovered by some designated as "the Tombs of the Turks, and reported to the governor, Kings," an excavated vault with an who put a very effectual stop to our oblong portico. The only visible en- researches, by ordering the whole of trance to this vault is at one end of the the portico to be walled in.

CHAPTER VII.

A TOUR TO PETRA AND THE DEAD SEA.

Difficulties attending our proposed Visit to Petra-Our Party-Our assumed Names and Costumes-Departure from Jerusalem-The Mountain of the Franks-The LabyrinthTekoa-Hebron-Its Governor-Difficulty in obtaining a Guide-Jellaheen Arabs-Plain of the Dead Sea-Salt Hills-Singular Trees and Plants-Favourable Reception by the Ghorneys-Beautiful Geological Specimens-Stopped by Arabs-The Castle of Kerek -Description of Kerek-Christian Church-Reception at Kerek-Skeikh Yousouf-His openness of Character-Departure from Kerek-The Wahabees-Mahannah-MoteRuins at Dettrass-The Wady-el-Ahsa-Ruined Temple-Gharundel-Volcanic Mountains-Shobek-Abon Raschid-His Dispute with the Sheikh of Wady Mousa, who refuses to permit our Advance-Noble conduct of Abon Raschid-View of Wady Mousa --Conferences of the Rival Chiefs-Preparations for Hostilities-Reinforcement from Kerek-Hindi-Failure of Negotiations-The Enemy suddenly withdraw their opposition. GREAT were the obstacles which pre- Grand Seignior's dominions; " but as sented themselves, and innumerable he and Mr. Frere, the British ministhe difficulties which we had to sur- ter, pressed the point very much, they mount before we could commence our at length referred him to the Pasha journey to Petra. It had for some of Damascus, who, equally averse to time been the wish of Mr. Bankes to have anything to do with the business, undertake this tour, as the only two passed him on to the governor of JeruEuropeans who had ever been either salem. This latter tried all he could at Kerek or Wady Mousa (Valley of to dissuade us from the undertaking, Moses or Petra) were both dead, viz., though Mr. Legh gave him a handSheikh Ibrahim and Mr. Seetzen. some spy-glass to induce him to assist Both these indefatigable travellers per- us. He advised us to apply to Mahomformed this journey alone and in dis- med Aga, the governor of Yaffa. The guise, and were consequently obliged communication between Egypt and to conceal their papers, and make all Mousa being usually through Gaza, their observations by stealth, which which is under Mahommed Aga's must necessarily have rendered their government, it was supposed that he remarks very brief and cursory, com- would have the greatest influence over pared to what they would have been the Arabs about Wady Mousa, inas had the writers been unrestrained. much as he possessed the means of Seetzen travelled as an Arab, calling punishing them for any violence they himself Moosa, but never got so far as might commit, either by stopping their Petra. supplies from Egypt, or by making prisoners of such of their people as came within his reach. The governor of Yaffa, however, not only evaded the affair altogether, but in order to put a stop to our journey, ordered us to return the horses which he had lent us. A second visit to the governor of Jerusalem seemed to promise as little as the preceding. We all four called on him. On this occasion, a former mot sellim, who had been twenty years in office, and was sitting with the governor, pledged his word to us that the Arabs are a most savage and treacherous race; and to prove it, added, that they think Franks' blood a good medicine for their women when sick, and

Although we are of opinion that Mr. Bankes could not have succeeded in accomplishing this journey without his junction with Mr. Legh and ourselves, still he has the merit of being the first person travelling as a European, who ever thought of extending his researches in that direction; and from his profound knowledge of ancient history, as well as his skill in drawing, he was by far the best calculated to go on such an expedition. When Mr. Bankes applied at Constantinople to have Kerek and Wady Mousa inserted in his firman, the Turkish Government returned for answer, "that they knew of no such places within the

that they would make use of ours for this purpose. All that we could procure from the governor was a promise to write to the Sheikh of Kerek to apprise him of our coming. When we went with the Greek pilgrims to Jericho and the Jordan, the governor sent a man to us, whom he thought fit to call the Sheikh of Kerek, congratulating us on the obstacles to our going to that place having been overcome. This man, however, was no sheikh, and we suspect the motive of the motsellim for sending the counterfeit, was to obtain another present. Finding that there was no getting any of the public authorities to render us any assistance, we determined to proceed, trusting to our numbers and force, and to try our fortune with the Sheikh of Hebron. Each of the party procured a Bedouin Arab dress of the most ordinary description, and we all bought horses for the journey, except Mr. Bankes, who was already provided. Our party consisted of Mr. Legh, attended by an interpreter, a Tartar from Constantinople, and a seyes (hostler) ; Mr. Bankes, who had with him a soldier of the Pasha of Egypt, and ourselves with a Christian Arab servant. We had for our guides an Arab named Mahommed, who lived near Jericho, and a native of Hebron. We took the precaution of having as little baggage as possible with us, and sent the greater part to Acre with one of Mr. Legh's servants. We assumed Eastern names for the journey: Mr. Legh was called Osman; Mr. Bankes, Halleel; Cap tain Irby, Abdallah ; and I, in remembrance of Collins' beautiful Eclogue of the Camel Driver, chose the name of Hassan. Our dress consisted of a frock and drawers of very coarse linen; the frock being fastened round the waist by a red leathern girdle, about 4 in. broad. The head-dress was a handkerchief of mixed silk and cotton, coloured with broad stripes of alternate red, green, and yellow. This was doubled into a triangular form and thrown over the head, to which it was attached by a double girdle of brown worsted rope. One corner of the handkerchief hangs down over the back of the neck the

other two cover the ears, and como down over the shoulders. When the weather is cold, the Arabs tuck up these corners under the chin, and cover the whole face with the exception of the eyes. Over all we had the woollen abba, which we had long worn, and which we procured at Yaffa. As regards arms, we had amongst us six muskets, one blunderbuss, five braces of pistols, and two sabres. Our money, consisting of small gold coins, was concealed in leathern belts round our waists next the skin.

In the evening of the 6th of May, we left Jerusalem two hours before dark, our party consisting of eleven persons, all mounted. We slept at Bethlehem.

May 7.-At 8 A.M. we proceeded to "Solomon's Pools," and thence down the valley towards the Mountain of the Franks, which we ascended. We found it hollow on the top, with walls round it, and four towers, all much in ruins. This post is said to have been maintained by the Franks forty years after the fall of Jerusalem. Though the place is too small ever to have contained one halt the number of men which would have been requisite to make any stand in such a country; and the ruins, though they may be those of a place once defended by Franks, appear to have had an earlier origin, as the architecture seems to be Roman. From the Mount of the Franks we could see part of the Dead Sea, and Kerek on the other side of it. We took the following bearings by compass: Abou Jane, a village on the right, between Bethlehem and the Frank Mountain, West-Bethlehem, N.W.-St. Elias, N.N.W.

We now proceeded to see the labyrinth. On approaching it, we left our horses at the ruins of a village called Hariatoon, and proceeded on foot, by the side of the cliffs on the southern side of a deep and picturesque ravine, to the mouth of the cave, which is entered by a long, winding, narrow passage, with small natural chambers or cavities on either side. We soon came to a large chamber, with natural arches of a great height; from this

chamber there were numerous passages leading in all directions, occasionally joined by others at right angles, and forming a perfect labyrinth, which our guides assured us had never been thoroughly explored, the people being afraid of losing themselves. The passages were generally four feet high, by three feet wide, and were all on the same level. We saw but few petrifactions; nevertheless, the grotto was perfectly clear, and the air pure and good. In the large chamber we found some broken pottery, by which it would seem that this place had once been inhabited, probably it had served for a place of concealment. We observed a few English names written with charcoal. We now returned to the horses, and proceeded to the southward, to visit the ruins of Tekoa. They stand on a slight eminence, commanding several bursts of the Dead Sea, and cover a considerable extent. This place was built by King Rehoboam.* We could not find the remains of any distinct temple or public edifice, though there are a few fragments of columns. From Tekoa we passed through a plain of cultivated land, and thence all the way to Hebron, through a much prettier country than that near Jerusalem, the sides of the hills being richly studded with shrubs and dwarf trees in full verdure. The prickly oak, arbutus, and Scotch fir, were most abundant. About five o'clock we passed a village called Sipheer, by the side of a wellcultivated valley. There are about nine Roman sepulchral caves near this village. From this point we crossed a rugged road into another plain, where are the ruins of a small convent, called by the Jews" the House of Abraham." We now ascended considerably, and passing between numerous vineyards, with a watch-tower in each, (some of which appeared to be very ancient,) we reached Hebron at dusk. It appears by sacred history, that "Hebron was built seven years before Zoan in Egypt." Josephus makes it not only older than Zoan, or Tanais, but also

*"He built even Bethlehem, and Etam, and Tekoa." 2 Chron. xi. 6. Numbers, xiii. 22.

than Memphis. Here Abraham, Sarah, and Isaac died.* We had this day passed many camps of Arabs; towards evening some of them invited us to pass the night in their tents. The Sheikh of Hebron received us very kindly. We were lodged in a small prayer-room attached to the khan; it was furnished with mats and carpets for us, and we were presently served with a beverage we never before saw in the East,

warm rice milk with sugar." It was handed round before coffee, and in the usual small cups. The Turks of Heb. ron having little intercourse with Europeans, are extremely jealous of Franks, not one of whom is allowed to live in the town, and I believe very few travellers have ever visited it; in consequence we found it impossible to gain admission into the mosque, in which is said to be the "tomb of Abraham." The lower part of this building is very curious, evidently antique, being formed of great stones, some of which are upwards of twenty-five feet in length; it has sixteen pilasters on each side, and eight at either end, without capitals, excepting a sort of ornamental summit which extends along the whole building, and is a species of cornice. Above this is a continuation of modern ma¬ sonry. The approach to the entrance of the edifice is by a long flight of steps between it and other ruined buildings which stand on its S.E. side. I imagine that the outside walls only inclose the court which surrounds the mosque, and are not part of the mosque itself. The town of Hebron is not of large dimensions, though its population is great. The country all round it is cultivated to a considerable extent. The streets are winding, and the houses unusually high. We visited a manufactory of glass lamps, which are exported to Egypt. We were told by the governor of Hebron, that there is a regular party of pilgrims who set out from hence every year, without any escort, depending entirely on their own strength. They arrange so as to fall in with the great Damascus hadj, near to, or at Mecca, which is at the distance of thirty days.

*Genesis, xxiii. 2; xlix. 31.

From a merchant of Cairo we ascertained the existence of vast ruins at Abdi, in the Desert to the south, about three days' distance.

early in the morning, but he said that arrangements could not be made for our departure till an hour after sunrise; and soon afterwards left us.

The first evening the governor of May 8. The governor did not Hebron made no difficulty about our make his appearance till after eight going to Wady Mousa, and Kerek, say- o'clock, bringing with him the three ing, "it was an easy matter, and he men who were to be our conductors, would undertake it." On the seventh, and the Jewish priest. He was however, difficulties began. We visited, shortly after followed by his brother, after dinner, the house of the Jewish who had previously inquired in an priest. There are one hundred Jewish indirect manner, why he had not rehouses in Hebron; we found their quar- ceived a present as well as his kinsters excessively clean, and neatly white- man. Lastly came all the law officers, washed; that of the priest was particu- and heads of authorities. These, tolarly so; it had a very nice divan, and gether with the motsellim, advised us commanded a fine view of the country. to go to Kerek direct, and not to Wady The Jews were very civil, and offered us Mousa. The governor, however, told letters to the places we were going to. the guides that there were 400 piasOn our return to the khan, from visit- tres for them if they chose to take us; ing the synagogue, Mr. Bankes pre- but these people, who had, in all prosented a watch to the governor, who bability, previously received instructook it without making any remark at tions to the purpose, declined conductthe time, but soon retired; shortly ing us. Finally, seeing there was no after a messenger arrived to say, that dealing with such people, we mounted the motsellim was not content with his our horses and left the town. In juspresent, and had given it to the Jewish tice to the governor, it should be menpriest. Soon, however, another person tioned that he not only returned the made his appearance, saying, they 400 piastres but the watch also. When wished to arrange the bargain for pay- we had got outside the town we held a ing the guides, &c. Three hundred and consultation together, and finding it fifty piastres were offered, but imme- impossible to proceed alone, without a diately rejected, as three thousand guide to shew us the road, we sent would have been at the first offer. into the town to say we would consent After a second visit to the Jew's house, to visit Kerek, first, in the mean time where we again found the governor, we retired to a neighbouring olivefour hundred piastres were paid down, yard. Our messenger returned with and we were to proceed the following word from the governor, "that he morning. After supper, the governor would have nothing at all to do with called at the khan; he appeared to be our concerns." A man on horseback shuffling a good deal, altering the order offered to show us the road, and we in which the different places were to accordingly proceeded with him, but be visited; but as he did not make any had scarcely advanced half an hour, material change, still placing Wady when two men came galloping and Mousa before Kerek, we did not much hallooing after us; upon which we care about it. He looked at all the stopped in a corn field, whilst we sent firmans, boyourdees, &c., but did not Mr. Bankes' soldier, Mahommed, with appear to pay as much respect as is them into the town, as the governor usual to the firman of the Grand Seig- wished to communicate with us; this nior. On observing Mr. Legh's Con- was about mid-day. Towards two stantinople Tartar, he said, but in ao'clock, Mahommed the Arab, who had good-humoured way, that a few years accompanied us from Jerusalem, ago, if a Tartar had come to Hebron, quitted us. About three o'clock Ma he would have had his head cut off, hommed the soldier returned with one but that it was not so now. We re- of the Jews, the sheikh having conquested to proceed on our journey sented to send us to Kerek, with a

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