VIII. CHAP. had himself figured in the Cabinets of its Princes'. The approaching downfall of the Turkish empire is an event which of course every reflecting mind must contemplate with eager anticipation; and every means conducive to this end is hailed as an instrument in the hand of God. Whether the armies of France or the fleets of England occasion signs of its approximation, the universal Church of Syria, howsoever distributed and divided by sects-Armenians, Georgians, Greeks, Abyssinians, Copts, Nestorians, Catholics, Syrians, Druses, Maronites,-together with all distinctions of Jewish worshippers-Samaritans, Karaites, Rabbinists,-are ready to bestow upon them their praises and their blessings. Thus, if a Frenchman arrive in Jerusalem, they talk to him of the victories of Buonaparté, and the prowess of Frenchmen in the Holy Land, as if they were preaching for a new Crusade. If an Englishman, they lavish commendations and benedictions upon the heroes of the British Navy; dwelling with enthusiasm upon the exploits of Nelson at Aboukir, upon those of Sir Sidney Smith at Acre, and upon the glorious fate of the lamented Abercrombie. (1) A monk at the Convent of St. Saba, near the Dead Sea, began to reveal to Mons. De Châteaubriand “the secrets of the Court of Russia.” See Trav. vol. I. pp. 405, 406. Lond. 1811. (2) As in the recent instance of De Chateaubriand. THE HOLY LAND.-JERUSALEM, TO BETHLEHEM, JAFFA, AND ACRE. Journey to Bethlehem - Singular Example of Dexterity in a Goat - View of Bethlehem Prospect of the Dead Sea-Erroneous Notions entertained of this Lake -Cause of those Opinions-Authors by whom it is described Precautions upon entering BethlehemDescent into the Valley-Critical Examination of a Passage in Josephus - David's Well-Interesting Circumstances connected with its History-Antiquity of Eastern Wells-Account of Bethlehem-Tomb of Rachel CHAP. Journey to Rachel-Caverns-Terebinthine Vale-Valley of Jere Arabs Bethoor miah - Vegetable Productions - Voyage along the Coast Cæsarea—Return to Acre. IX. WHEN we had seen all, and much more than is worth notice, in Jerusalem; and had obtained from the Superior of the Franciscan Monastery the usual Certificate given to pilgrims', of the different places we had visited in the Holy Bethlehem. Land; we prepared for our departure. The worthy Friars, Friars, who had treated us with very great attention, finding that we were determined to go to Bethlehem, where the plague then raged with fatal violence, told us, with expressions of regret, that they could not again receive us, if we persisted in our intention. We therefore took leave of them, resolved at all events to see the place of our SAVIOUR'S nativity, and then continue our journey to Jaffa, without entering Jerusalem in our return. Singular dexterity of a Goat. Upon our road, we met an Arab with a goat, which he led about the country for exhibition, in (1) This Certificate entitles persons of the Greek Church to the title of Hadgi. It is a curious document, and has therefore been preserved for the Appendix to this volume. IX. order to gain a livelihood for itself and its owner. CHAP. He had taught this animal, while he accompanied its movements with a song, to mount upon little cylindrical blocks of wood, placed successively one above the other, and in shape resembling the dice-boxes belonging to a backgammon-table. In this manner the goat stood, first upon the top of one cylinder, then upon the top of two, and afterwards of three, four, five, and six, until it remained balanced upon the summit of them all, elevated several feet from the ground, and with its four feet collected upon a single point, without throwing down the disjointed fabric upon which it stood. The practice is very antient. It is also noticed by Sandys. Nothing can shew more strikingly the tenacious footing possessed by this quadruped upon the jutty points and crags of rocks; and the circumstance of its ability to remain (2) See the Vignette to this Chapter. (3) Sandys saw this in Grand Caïro. There are in this city, and have beene of long, a sort of people that do get their livings by shewing of feates with birds and beasts, exceeding therein all such as have bin famous amongst us. . . . . . . I have seen them make both dogs and goates to set their foure feet on a little turned pillar of wood, about a foot high, and no broader at the end than the palm of a hand : climing from one to two set on the top of one another; and so to the third and fourth; and there turne about as often as their masters would bid them." Sandys' Travels, p. 126. Lond. 1637. CHAP. View of thus poised may render its appearance less surprising, as it is sometimes seen in the Alps, and in all mountainous countries, with hardly any place for its feet, upon the sides, and by the brink of most tremendous precipices'. The diameter of the upper cylinder, on which its four feet ultimately remained until the Arab had ended his ditty, was only two inches; and the length of each cylinder was six inches. The most curious part of the performance occurred afterwards; for the Arab, to convince us of the animal's attention to the turn of the air, interrupted the da capo: as often as he did this, the goat tottered, appeared uneasy, and, upon his becoming suddenly silent in the middle of his song, it fell to the ground. After travelling for about an hour, from the time of our leaving Jerusalem, we came in view of Bethlehem, and halted to enjoy the interesting sight. The town appeared covering the ridge of a hill on the southern side of a deep and extensive valley, and reaching from east to (1) On the cliffs above hung a few goats; one of them danced, and scratched an ear with its hind foot, in a place where I would not have stood stock-still For all beneath the Moon." See "Gray's Letter to Wharton," p.375. Memoirs by Mason, Lond. 1775. |