"The intensity of the heat making it almost impossible to travel during the day, we set off from Acre a little before sunset." Indeed, from a table given by Dr. Clarke of the temperatures which he observed in his journey through Palestine, compared with those on the same day in London, it appears that the mean excess of the former, on the 5th of July and seven following days, was nearly 25°. On the 5th, the greatest height in London was 30° below that in Galilee.

But to pursue the route towards the Lake. "As we advanced, our journey lay through an open champaign country, until upon our right our guides showed us the Mount of Beatitudes." They mean the hill where Christ delivered the Sermon on the Mount; but this was certainly near Capernaum. “We left our route to visit this elevated spot; and having attained the highest point of it, a view was presented, which, for its grandeur, independently of the interest excited by the different objects contained in it, has no parallel in the Holy Land."

From Pococke we learn that this eminence is twelve miles north-east from Nazareth, and ten miles north of Tabor. Viewed from the plain on the south, it appears like a long low hill, with a mount at the east and west extremity; and hence it appears to have been termed Kern-el-Hutin, i. e. the horns of Hutin, since the village now called Hutin, famous for gardens of lemon and orange trees, lies below this hilly range. "From this eminence (says Mr. Joliffe), the Sea of Galilee appears spread out in the distant vale, a beautiful expanse of living water. No object can be imagined better calculated to administer refreshment to the eye or the spirits in a climate like this. The view also comprehends a very magnificent prospect of the mountains, as they rise from the eastern shore of the Lake, and stretch out in a northerly and southerly direction. Their extreme heights are (Aug. 11) covered with snow, which the reflection of a burning sun renders insufferably dazzling." Buckingham, describing the same magnificent prospect, says, "The lofty summit of Libanus, covered with an unbroken sheet of snow, was still a conspicuous part in the picture; and it is seen, indeed, from almost every point of view, excepting near the northern edge of the Lake. From this edge, a series of hills rises one over the other, until the highest point of the third and fourth range forms the foundation of the basis of the Gebel-el-Thelji, or Moun tain of Snow."

Pococke states that about two miles north-east of Hutin, is a narrow pass, called the Valley of Doves, forming the descent between two rocky mountains into the Plain of Gennezareth, which lies westward of the Lake, beginning at the centre of its shore. Through this vale, undoubtedly, our Saviour often passed in his way from the south-west of Galilee,

to the neighbourhood of Capernaum: and every definite representation of a district so frequently traversed by him when he went about doing good,' presents a new field of interest to the mind. We not only contemplate him pursuing his labours of love, but can picture the very scenes in which he exercised them.-South of this pass, in the plain of Hutin, about two miles west of the Lake, and three miles west-north-west of Tiberias, are the ruins of a town now called Baitsida, which, says Pococke, "must have been the ancient Bethsaida of Galilee."

From the lofty eminence above Hutin, Dr. Clarke saw that the plain over which they had been riding was itself very elevated; and far beneath appeared other plains, one lower than the other, in regular gradation, and extending the surface of the Lake of Galilee. He thus proceeds:

"This immense Lake, almost equal, in the grandeur of appearance, to that of Geneva, spread its waters over all the lower territory. Its eastern shores present a sublime scene of mountains, extending towards the north and south, and seeming to close it in at either extremity. The cultivated plains reaching to its borders, which we beheld at an amazing depth below our view, resembled, by the various hues their different produce exhibited, the motley pattern of a vast carpet. To the north appeared snowy summits, towering, beyond a series of intervening mountains, with unspeakable greatness. The principal summit was so lofty that the snow entirely covered the upper part of it; not lying in patches, but investing all the higher part with that perfect white and smooth velvet-like appearance, which snow only exhibits when it is very deep ;-a striking spectacle in such a climate, when the beholder, seeking protection from a burning sun, almost considers the firmament to be on fire." The Thermometer at this time, in the most shady situation they could find, indicated 102°.

"By a steep, devious, and difficult track, following our horses on foot, we descended from this place to the village of Hatti, the Hutin of Pococke, situated at one extremity of the cultivated plain we had surveyed from the heights." In riding from this village southwards towards the town of Tiberias, the Lake continued in view upon the left. "It may be described as longer and finer than any of our Cumberland and Westmoreland Lakes, although perhaps it yields in majesty to the stupendous features of Loch Lomond in Scotland. It is inferior in magnitude, and, perhaps, in the height of its surrounding mountains, to the Lake Asphaltites; but its broad and extended surface, covering the bottom of a profound valley, environed by lofty and precipitous eminences, added to the impression of a certain reverential awe under which every Christian pilgrim approaches it, gives it a character of dignity unparalled by any similar scenery."

After they reached the end of the elevated plain, a long and steep declivity of two miles yet remained to Tiberias. Here they had a commanding view of the town, with its castle and fortifications. Beyond it appeared buildings erected over the warm mineral baths of Ammaus. Along the borders of the Lake, may still be seen the remains of ancient tombs hewn by the inhabitants of Galilee in the rocks which face the water.

"In all the descent towards Tiberias the soil is black, and seems to have resulted from the decomposition of rocks, which have a volcanic appearance." "We observed

plantations of tobacco then in bloom, of Indian corn, of millet which was still green, of melons, pumpkins, and cucumbers. The harvest of wheat and barley ended in June; but the oats were still standing." The whole of this region is very full of wild animals. "Antelopes (says Dr. Clarke) are in great numbers. We had the pleasure of seeing these beautiful quadrupeds in their natural state, feeding among the thistles and tall herbage, and bounding by ns occasionally as we disturbed them."

On arriving at the Lake, Dr. Clarke, like other travelers, found the water clear as the purest crystal, sweet, cool, and most refreshing to the taste. Josephus gives the same character of it. On his authority we may represent the Lake as between seventeen and eighteen miles in length; its greatest breadth appears to exceed six miles. Madox, in his excursions to the Holy Land, &c., says that when he visited it (Mar. 8) it was much higher than usual, the shrubs on its margin being half under water. "All the way along the margin of the Lake", he says on his second visit, "fine oleanders in full blossom (May 15) were growing, most of them in the water. The corn on the plain was ripe and being cut."-Like all others surrounded by mountains, the Lake of Galilee is exposed to the effect of hurricanes, which, sweeping from the mountains, instantaneously raise a boisterous sea.

In the time of our Lord, Tiberias was the residence of Herod, when in Galilee. It is situated close to the Lake. This city was built by the Tetrarch himself, in honour of the Emperor Tiberius; and Josephus informs us, Ant. XVIII. ii. 3, that its population was composed of strangers and Galileans, of persons who came voluntarily and others who were forced to reside there, of poor collected from all quarters, and even of bondmen. To this mixed population, Herod gave great immunities: he also assigned them lands, and built for them houses, that they might become attached to the place; for this residence obliged them to violate the Law, since many sepulchres had been there, which were now destroyed. This account at once explains why we never hear of our Lord's going thither.-Herod obviously fixed upon the spot, on account of its vicinity to the hot mineral baths of Ammaus.*

Proceeding northwards along the shore of the Lake, the first place we find is Magdol or Migdal, which there is good reason to regard as the Magdala from which Mary came. It is about six miles north of Tiberias; and it is seated near the edge of the Lake, beneath a range of high cliffs, in which small grottoes are seen. Here the hills retire westward from the

Tiberias was entirely destroyed by an earthquake, Jan. 1, 1837, and about a thousand persons are supposed to have perished. At the same time Saphet (Szaffad) also was destroyed. Four thousand persons perished, of whom nearly one half were Jews.

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Lake, and the fertile Land of Gennesareth commences. The peculiar fertility of this district is noticed by all travelers. Josephus, Bell. Jud. III. ix. 8, speaks of its extraordinary adaptation, both in climate and in soil, to the production of all kinds of fruits and vegetables; so that plants requiring elsewhere a difference of temperature, thrive here, he says, as if the seasons were in competition which should contribute most. Hence nuts, and palms, and olives abound there. Figs and grapes continue in season during ten months out of the twelve; and other fruits throughout the whole year. The Jewish historian says that Gennerareth is thirty stadia from north to south, and twenty from east to west. Beyond the middle of the plain, towards the north, there is a very fine fountain, about a hundred feet in diameter, inclosed by a circular wall, and hence called by travelers the Round Fountain: the water runs off in a stream through the plain to the Lake. Seetzen, speaking of this district says, "The valley in the midst of which is the Lake, assists, by the concentration of heat, the vegetation of dates, citrons, oranges, indigo, &c.; while the higher land in the neighbourhood is capable of furnishing the produce of temperate climates. But, in the present state of things, we can only find a few traces of fruits of the solar regions on the edge of the Lake." Burckhardt says that the pastures of this district are proverbial for their richness, among the inhabitants of the neighbouring countries; and he speaks of several springs as occasioning a very luxuriant herbage along the borders of the Lake. Besides all this, travelers mention some warm springs in this part of the vicinity to the Lake; and considering the volcanic character of other parts, there is little doubt that much of the peculiar and varied productiveness of Genneraret was owing to subterranean heat.

Proceeding further along the Lake, at the eastern foot of the hills which lie north of the Land of Gennesareth, and where the coast bends easterly, there are extensive ruins, which, though much diversity of opinion exists, appear certainly to mark the position of Capernaum, now Tal-hewn. Buckingham gives the most satisfactory information respecting it; and he states that it is seated close to the edge of the Lake, having Tiberias south-south-west of it, apparently from nine to twelve miles distance, the entrance of the Jordan lying east-north-east, about four or five miles from it.

"The appearance of the Lake as seen from this point of view, is still grand. The barren aspect of the mountains on each side, and the total absence of wood, give, however a cast of dulness to the picture; and this is increased to melancholy, by the dead calm of its waters, and the silence which reigns throughout its whole extent, where not a boat or vessel of any kind is to be found.”—Chorazin (p. cvi.) may have been nearer the Jordan.

There is one boat to be found, viz. at Tiberias. Recollecting that in the

days of our Saviour there were great numbers of fishing-barks on the Lake, and that it still abounds, as all travelers declare, in excellent fish of various kinds, the present desertion of it manifests the sad state into which this fine country has fallen. Under a good government it must rise again.

In comparing Buckingham's account of the mountain-scenery surrounding the Lake, with Clarke's and Lamartine's, we might be apprehensive of the influence of a fervid or a poetic imagination on the latter. Even as viewed from the south, where the Lake is seen most advantageously, because the snow-clad heights of Lebanon are strikingly visible, Mr. Buckingham speaks of "the bare and yellow mountains of the eastern shore"; and though he represents the scenery around the Lake as possessed of many features of grandeur, yet he also says that it is destitute of wood and verdure. It must, however, be observed, that he traveled in this region after a very unusual and long-continued drought. His visit to the Lake was before the middle of February; and in his preceding route he had repeatedly spoken of the complete want of rain. In January the drought had continued, with scarcely any intermission, from October; though the heavy rains, he says, are generally in December, and in January the country is verdant throughout. In the southern route from Nazareth to the Lake, passing (Feb. 12) about two miles to the north of Mount Tabor, he speaks of a vale where the country was woody, but the oaks were bare; and states that they halted in the shade, the heat being oppressive, the thermometer being at 92°, and the whole country parched by the long drought. Farther on, they found the whole surface cracked by excessive drought; and at a place still nearer to the Lake, where they saw flocks of Ghazelles, the whole country was burnt up by the unseasonable heat and want of rain.

When the north of Palestine shall be as much the object of attention to intelligent travelers, as at present the region of Jerusalem is; and when persons capable of appreciating the scenery of the Lake, with the sentiment. of religion in their hearts, and the pencil faithful to nature in their hands, shall remain for weeks in the region around it; we then shall have abundance to delight the imagination, as well as to inform the understanding. The elements of distinct conception are, however, afforded us already; and in addition to the somewhat conflicting accounts which have been presented to the reader, it may be well to give those of two other travelers. The aecount of Mr. Hardy, who visited the Lake at the end of April 1833, conveys what would, perhaps, most accord with the general impression of those beholders who have, as he had, clothed the appearance of the Lake with "beautiful imaginations", and who, like himself, only spent a few