far surpasses this for its temperance." Let the first glass be for As distillation occupies the attention of multitudes in China, it is generally conducted on a limited scale by each individual. The machinery of a still-house much resembles that in use on the continent of Europe, or what is employed in this country by illicit distillers, with the exception that the head and condenser of the still are of a different construction, having no worm-tub. The condensation is effected by a cylinder full of water surrounding the head, and kept full either by a small stream or being poured in by the hand. The head is, for the most part, globular, with a neck to fit into the breast or body of the still. Near the neck, inside the head, is a gutter from which a tube projects through the cylinder of water to convey the condensed vapour into a receiver, as shewn in the annexed drawing. The process of distillation is laborious, but, as already observed, the mechanical arts in this country are not progressively advancing, and, therefore, the Chinese are regardless of the toil, which a little exertion and ingenuity might obviate. The still is placed in a furnace of brick work, and the fire so directed that the whole force of the flame may bear on the central parts of the bottom. By this means much saving of fuel is effected, and the economy of the people is shewn here as in the other pursuits of life, it being a maxim among them to let nothing go to loss that can be turned to advantage. Although coal is plentiful in some of the provinces, yet a great deal of it is deficient in that gaseous quality which renders it valuable. Hence wood becomes expensive, and is for the most part sold by weight, bringing a price in proportion to its goodness for fuel. Soft pine is the cheapest, because it is easily consumed. Charcoal is common, but very expensive. Under these circumstances, great caution is displayed in every instance in which fuel is requisite. When scarcity or famine is dreaded, distillation is prohibited, as in Great Britain, by proclamation. Where stills are found afterwards at work, the still-houses are destroyed, the workmen thrown into prison, whipped, and condemned to carry the cangue or kia, a degrading frame of wood placed round the neck, weighing from one to two hundred pounds, which renders the culprit unable to do any thing for himself so long as he is obliged to wear it.* The facility with which fuel is conveyed by canals through the provinces, and the ease of procuring grain in every town and village, tend greatly to the encouragement of distillation. The skill of the Chinese in distillation is not confined to the manufacture of brandy from rice or millet alone. Besides the quantities that are distilled from the produce of the paim and other fruits, a very ardent spirit, said not to be unworthy of the emperors, is produced from the flesh of sheep.† The nature of the process seems to be as yet a secret to Europeans; some indeed have stated, that several vegetable substances are employed, but this assertion appears to rest on mere conjecture. The use of this liquor was first introduced by the Tartars, whose fondness for the repasts which the flocks and herds of their native wilds afforded, induced them to subject to the action of the still, the flesh of an animal that had long formed the basis of a more simple, though perhaps not less intoxicating beverage. I allude to their lamb wine. Staunton's Translation of the Penal Code of China, 4to. p. 12 † Du Halde, vol. i. p. 303. Davis's China, vol. i. p. 330. The Chinese term for this liquor is Kau-yang-tsyew. It is said to be a very strong, nutritious beverage, and the Tartars delight to get drunk with it.* Kang-hi, who was of Tartar origin and wielded the Chinese sceptre for sixty years, encouraged the manufacture of this spirit by the use he made of it himself. It has, however, never been a favourite in China, and we have little reason to expect that its admirers, should any of them visit Europe, will ever be regaled with a cup of this exhilarating draught. Of a similar description is, perhaps, the spirits made at Surat, denominatd spirit of mutton, spirit of deer, spirit of goat, which derive their names from the practice of throwing into the still a joint of mutton, a haunch of venison, or a quarter of goat, with a view, as is conceived, to add a mellowness and softness to the spirit.† The inhabitants of the province of Quang-tong distil a very pleasant liquor from the flowers of a species of lemon tree, which are said to possess an exquisite odour, and like those of the Mahwah or Madhuca of Bahar, in India, have a strong saccharine quality. The fruit of the tree is almost as big as a man's head; its rind resembles that of the orange, but the substance within is either white or reddish, and has a taste between sweet and sour. The spirit is perfectly clear and transparent and is held in high estimation. From the refuse of their sugar plantations, in which the cane grows to great perfection, particularly in the southern provinces, much rum might be manufactured, but no attempt has yet been made to distil that article. So great is the trade in sugar, that 10,000,000lbs. were exported from the country in 1806. The sugar exported from Canton for American consumption in four years, from 1815 to 1819, amounted to 39,670 piculs; and from that port, in the same period, were exported for European use, 21,400 piculs.§ The entire quantity carried from Canton by the American traders, from 1804 to 5th January, 1819, appears to be 67,673 piculs ;|| and the quantity imported into Great Britain, the produce of the East Indies and China, for seven years from 5th January, 1815, to 5th January, 1821, amounts to 1,073,730 cwt., which, at £2. 2s. per cwt., gives a sum of £2,254,833, being at the rate of 44d. per lb. The Chinese are expert in the manufacture of sugar and sugar-candy; the latter has been celebrated. Grosier, vol. ii. p. 319. † Grose's Voyage to the East Indies, vol. i. p. 112. Du Halde, vol. i. p. 109. § Parliamentary Report, 7th May, 1821, p. 183. Ibid. p. 315. So far back as 1637, both these articles could have been purchased for three half pence per lb. of a quality as white as snow. In their sugar establishments, simplicity seems to be the prevailing consideration. Mr. Abeel, who visited one of these manufactories in the island of Whampoa, describes the mill which expressed the liquor from the cane, as composed of three vertical cylinders made of coarse granite, with wooden cogs. The coppers or boilers were made of cast iron, which the Chinese have the art of reducing almost to the texture of common paper, and of welding, when broken, with entire facility and firmness. These boilers were arrayed triangularly, and with little regard to those principles of granulation which are elsewhere observed. All were performed by manual labour; the mill was placed below the level of the boilers, and the liquor carried in tubs from the one to the other. As it attained consistency in each of these vessels, instead of being passed through a strainer into the next, it was transferred by hand to another part of the building, whence, after the process of filtration, it was returned to its appropriate cauldron.* The wines of Europe are now imported into China, like other articles of merchandise, and are often sold to considerable advantage. The Xeres, or Sherry wine, is preferred on account of its strength, and because it is not liable to change by heat. The Spaniards send wines to Manilla, Macao, and other parts, from whence the Chinese bring a considerable quantity, especially for the court of Pekin.† The East India Company exclusively exported to China in ten years, from 1810 to 1820, beer alone to the value of £14,309, and wine in bottles and packages for the same period to the amount of £7,383. This trade is on the increase, and the reader is referred to an account of all beer, ale, and spirits, both British and foreign, as well as wine, exported from Great Britain to the East Indies and China for a period of seven years, as given in the Addenda, for the purpose of shewing at one view the extent of this commerce, and its importance as a source of wealth and consumption to our home and foreign manufacture. The Americans also are carriers of these articles. In the year ending 5th January, 1819, one thousand gallons of gin were imported by them into Canton. The superior quality of European spirits renders their importation desirable, as much confusion and danger have arisen in the immoderate use of the ardent Abeel's Journal of a Residence in China, p. 83. † Osbeck's Voyage to China, vol. i. pp. 315, 316. spirits of the country by the British sailors who frequent this port, and of whose habits the Chinese take advantage by mixing their liquors with ingredients of an irritating and maddening effect. It superinduces a state of inebriety more ferocious than that occasioned by any other spirit, and leading the men into the most riotous excesses, tends to establish in the minds of the peaceable inhabitants the most unfavourable opinion of the English character. When a European vessel touches at Canton, it is common for the natives to come on board and barter whatever articles may mutually answer the parties. Among these, sam-su is not the least in request. This liquor is generally carried in small pots; and is so cheap, that nearly three pints may sometimes be purchased for about three pence halfpenny; and for a small coin called joss, value about one-tenth of a penny, a very strong dram of sam-su may be obtained. The gentleman who assured me of this, was some time in China, and was often surprised when his vessel lay in the roads off Whampoa, to see with what despatch a quantity of sam-su, when ordered, was brought on board from the shore. He was informed by the inhabitants that there was no restriction on the making of it by any enactment of the state. The sam-su brought to the vessel was generally of a yellowish colour, and to his taste rather disagreeable; but custom rendered it palatable. He also added that he had drunk arrack distilled from rice, not inferior either in strength or quality to any of our best whiskey. Two boats, called hoppoo-boats, are usually fastened to the stern of every ship anchoring at Whampoa. These are supplied with every necessary that the sailors stand in need of, and among the rest with a large store of sam-su. Notwithstanding this convenience, adventurers throng from the shore carrying quantities of drink and other articles; an intercourse often attended with unpleasant consequences. The liquor now distilled at Canton is of a superior description to that formerly manufactured, owing to a Chinese from Penang having lately introduced the making of rum, since which that spirit can be purchased at a cheap rate. In contrasting the habits of the Chinese with those of other nations, we cannot but admire the general regularity and temperance of this people, and the wisdom of the government by which they are held in such moderation. Montesquieu has asserted, that drunkenness increases in proportion as we recede from the equator to the poles. This assumption is highly questionable, particularly as regards China, for, if such were the fact, the Chinese in the northern ** |