plain, towards the Bekan, and at about half an hour's walk from the town, is a small octagonal building, probably a temple, surrounded by eight beautiful granite columns, which are nearly all standing, though the roof has fallen in. It is called by the natives Kubbet Duris.-It had entered into my views to visit Zahle, in my way to Damascus. It lies seven hours from Baalbec to the southeast, and is reported to be a large pleasant town, built in an inlet of the mountain (Libanus), on a steep ascent, surrounded by vineyards, and inhabited almost entirely by Christians (Greek Catholics). It belongs to the territory of the Druses. Half an hour from Zahle, on the south side of the village of Kerak, is the pretended Tomb of Noah. What is shown as such is a tomb-stone about ten feet long, three broad, and two high, plastered all over. Over this is a long structure, measuring nearly sixty feet, the height of Noah, according to Oriental tradition. The Turks visit the grave, and pretend that Noah is really buried there. Two hours from Zahle, and half an hour from the village of Fursul, is the ruined temple, called Hermes Nieha.* However de

* See Appendix. No. 16

sirous of visiting these places, the muleteer, without assigning any particular reason, opposed my taking this route. I suppose the true motive of his reluctance, was the fear of getting punished for his tyrannical conduct, Zahle being under the authority of the Emir Beshir, who is known to lean towards Europeans. I was therefore obliged to take the more direct road through Zebdeni, consoling myself with the reflection, that I should the sooner get rid of so disagreeable and dangerous a companion. Just as I was on the point of starting, five or six armed men seized hold of the bridle of my horse, and demanded a caphar of twelve piastres in the name of the Sheikh el Beled, or governor of the district. I claimed an exemption in virtue of my firman, but they disregarded it, excusing themselves by saying, that as it was written in Turkish, they did not understand its purport; "Moreover," said they, "you are dressed like a native, therefore you cannot expect to be allowed to assume a double character." This part of the argument had some degree of plausibility in it, and acting thereon, I felt myself forced to yield. My opposition had arisen merely from an unwillingness to establish a precedent prejudicial to future travel

lers, for indeed, the sum demanded was but trifling. On the other hand, it is not so much the value of the present that makes it sought for, as the compliment due to the party who claims it, the withholding of which is deemed both an injury and an insult. The charge therefore of exaction and mercenary conduct bestowed upon Turkish authorities by unreflecting European travellers, is not always justly applicable to the objects of their censure.

The first part of the road from hence to Damascus lies over the western declivities of the AntiLibanus, which are completely barren, without pasture or trees, and thinly inhabited. Towards Zebdeni the villages are more thickly set, and the hills are covered with vineyards from their bases to their summits. The quantity of grapes produced far exceeds the wants of the inhabitants; and as no wine is made of them, the surplus is converted into a juicy saccharine substance, called Dibs, and used as a substitute for sugar. The immediate approach to Zebdeni lies through extensive mulberry plantations, enclosed, and having gates (an unusual sight in this country) opening into them.

I was conducted to the Sheikh's house. We found

him seated on a raised divan, round the trunk of an immense sycamore, which spread its branches at least twenty yards in every direction. Close by was a running stream, affording freshness and life to the scene. The Sheikh was holding a fine falcon perched upon his fore-finger, and was apparently entertaining a numerous audience upon the subject of hawking, of which species of amusement the Turks are great amateurs. He desired me to sit down by his side, and ordered me an argile, or "water pipe," and a cup of coffee. After a few minutes' conversation on the subject of my past and intended travels, I was allowed to retire. I was not sorry to do so; for whilst talking with the Sheikh, I observed Mustapha relating the scene that had passed between us in the plain of Baalbec, and some unpleasant epithets from his listeners, applicable to myself, more than once reached my ear.

Zebdene is a considerable village, lying about half way between Baalbec and Damascus, from which respective places it is distant about eight hours. It is likewise a great thoroughfare from the latter place into the mountain (the Anti-Libanus), and vice versa. The latter is here called Djebel Zebdeni. From the

great concourse of strangers, it has an air of bustle and life, not usually seen in these parts. The inhabitants, three-fourths of whom are Mussulmen, the remainder Christians, breed cattle and the silkworm they have also some dyeing houses. The town is partly built on the high ground, and partly on the low, with large gardens attached to each house, which are plentifully supplied with water from the mountain.

Returning to the Sheikh's house a little before sunset, I found a great number of strangers sitting down to the afternoon meal. It was served, as usual, on a large round table, five feet across, and raised about a foot from the ground. The viands are put into hollow metal dishes, and each one of the guests helps himself in his turn, by dipping in the forefinger and thumb of the right hand—the left is never used on these occasions—and withdrawing a portion, which passes straight to his mouth: a wooden spoon is used to drink up the liquid. I had become inured to this mode of eating, common throughout the East, however disagreeable it might have been at first; and I should have found the ragouts on this occasion excellent, had I been equally