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bearing as usual the sacred volume in hand, and enjoying its agreeable reading in undisturbed repose, a messenger came up from the convent, to apprize us of the great events of which Paris had recently been the theatre. The intelligence had reached them from Acre, and the same courier brought letters to M. de Cadalvene, in which some of the details were given, but in a hasty way. Our excellent friend, at the time he quitted Paris, held an official situation at the court of the Tuileries. With the departure of the King he saw his better prospects vanish, and he was too far from the scene of action, to be able to judge of all the consequences of so great a revolution. We had each of us also resided much in the French capital, and had therefore left many valuable friends in it. We naturally felt very anxious about their safety.
Return to the Coast-Route from Nazareth to Acre-Saffura, or Zippor-Plain and Town of Zebulon-Vale of Abilene -Arrival at Acre-Salute from the Batteries-Latin Convent-Departure for Tyre-Route along the Coast northward-Zib-Ladder of Tyrus-Ras-el-Abiad, or White Promontory Ancient Phoenicia-Ras-el-Ayn-Ancient Tyre-Modern town of Tsur.
NAZARETH, Sep. 8, 9, 10, 11.-Owing to the protracted illness of M. de Cadalvene, we were detained here several days. As change of air was the only thing likely to benefit him in his case, we were anxious to get him down to the coast, but he was in too weak a state to be removed. No vehicle of any kind could be procured, not even a litter supported by mules. Yet we read that formerly the "land was full of horses, neither was there any end of their chariots." (Isaiah.)
We had now completed our pilgrimage to the several stations in the Holy Land. Accordingly, a diploma to this effect, drawn up in Latin, was given to each of us by the superior of the convent. It entitles us henceforth to the once-enviable title of Hadji, or pilgrim, prefixed to our Christian names.*
Sep. 12. The health of M. de Cadalvene having sufficiently improved to allow of my leaving him in the hands of M. de Breuvery alone, I set out for Acre. I travelled in company with the superior of the convent and another friar. The former was a German by birth, and a man of some learning, and of very affable manners. Being advanced in years, he had resigned his post, and was proceeding to the place he had chosen for his retirement, viz. the convent of Harissa, in the Kesrouan, beautifully situated on an eminence overhanging the sea. We again travelled by night to avoid the great heat.
Crossing the hills which encompass the vale of Nazareth in a northerly direction, and turning westward, over a hilly and stony tract, in about three
▾ See additional notes, No. 30.
hours we came to the ruined village of Sephoury, which, from its name and situation, suficiently indicates the site of Sapphura or Sepphoris, the ancient Zippor or Tsippor. It was the largest city in Galilee, and at one time called Dio Cæsarea; thus we have another instance of the preservation of the more ancient appellation, in that by which the site is still known to the natives. It is referred to in the Talmud as the seat of a Jewish university, and was famous for the learning of its rabbies. Here was held one of the five Sanhedrims or judicatures of Palestine, the others being at Jerusalem, Jericho, Gadara, and Amathus. It was so advantageously situated for defence, that it was deemed impregnable, and its inhabitants often revolted against the Romans; but what renders it more interesting to Christian travellers, is, its being considered as the native place of Joachim and Anna, the parents of the Virgin Mary. The remains of a church, built on the spot where stood the house wherein they are supposed to have dwelt, are still seen—even in its present state, it exhibits marks of great magnificence, having been built with very costly materials. The town, which is now a heap of
ruins, was destroyed by the Romans in the fourth century, at which time the sanctuary appears to have shared in the general destruction. It does not appear ever to have recovered from this overthrow. In its proximity to Nazareth will, perhaps, be found the reason of its remaining so long in a neglected and desolate state. A round castle, probably the Acropolis of the ancient city, occupies the top of the hill on which the village stands, and has an imposing appearance. As seen at this hour, by the light of a beautiful moon, it is a picturesque ruin. Here commences the plain of Zebulon, which we crossed in another direction, on our way to Nazareth. We were again struck with the astonishing fertility of its soil, and the beautifully wooded hills by which it is bounded in the distance-it is between three and four miles in length, and one in breadth. In the enumeration of the villages which are situated in the neighbourhood, we found no name which seemed to indicate the site of the ancient strong city of Zabulon" of admirable beauty," which Josephus says divided the country of Ptolemais from their nation.
The vale of Abilene succeeds to that of Zebulon,