upper level, stands a hill of an oblong shape, with

two projecting summits, on one of the extremities. The natives call it Keroun Hottein (the horns of Hottein). The Christians have given it the appellation of Mons Beatitudinis (the Mount of the Beatitudes). About the middle of this mount, on a ground somewhat more level than the rest, are the foundations of a small church, erected to commemorate the spot occupied by our Lord in delivering the memorable " sermon on the mount," in which are concentrated the sum and substance of every Christian virtue." And Jesus went about all Galilee, and there followed him great multitudes of people." Seeing the multitude, he went up into the mountain and taught them, saying, "Blessed are etc."

The country over which we have passed this day consists of a succession of narrow plains, rising one above another from the bed of the Jordan. The soil every where is a fine black mould, deep and perfectly free from stones. To our uninitiated eyes, under such a climate, it appears capable of any production, if the hand of man were put to it; and of

• See Matt. chap. v. et seq.

this we are quite certain, viz. that his labour, however slightly bestowed, would be repaid more than a hundred-fold. Since entering Galilee, we have all been particularly struck with the amazing fertility of the soil, and the beautiful spots we have seen, as contrasted with the barren rocks of Judah. As I there observed, "the breath of Jehovah's wrath seems in a peculiar manner to have blasted and withered the territory of the daughter of Zion." But here, where his bounties are so manifold, no man comes forward to avail himself of them. It lies untilled, and is scarcely inhabited. The Jewish historian, after bearing testimony to the natural fertility of the soil, draws a very different picture of the state of this country in his time. In those days, the Galileans, who were. very numerous, were a strong, warlike, and industrious race. "The whole of this district was cultivated by them, and no part lay idle." It was covered with towns and villages; of the former, the smallest contained a population of fifteen thousand souls. From these two small provinces Upper and Lower Galilee, he collected an army of more than one hundred thousand souls. To what then can be attributed the change, but to the oppressive conduct of the go

vernors towards the agricultural inhabitants of this part of Palestine?

Descending from the mountain into the plain, we crossed over an extensive piece of ground covered with a great variety of thistles, some of them growing to the height of four or five feet. The heat was again very great, and we were prevented from gathering specimens; but I believe they have been already noticed by the learned naturalist, Haselquist, who visited these parts.

Approaching the little village of Turon, we passed over an open stubble field, called by the monks

66

degle spine," as being, according to them, the one wherein the disciples of Christ plucked the ears of corn on the Sabbath day. (See Luke vi. 1-5.) But the harvest was over, and we could not gather any, either to "rub them in our hands, to eat them," or to carry them home as relics for our friends.

In five hours and a half from Tiberias, we reached Keffer Kenna, the Cana of Galilee, so called to distinguish it from another town of this name in the tribe of Asher. (Josh. xix. 28.) The word Keffer, meaning infidel, is applied by Mahomedans to places more particularly inhabited by Christians. Here

Christ performed his first recorded miracle, that of turning water into wine, at the marriage feast. It is a neat village, pleasantly situated on the descent of a hill, looking towards the south-west, and surrounded by plantations of olive and other fruit trees. In one of these enclosures we were invited by the owner to take up our quarters, during the few hours we intended to sojourn in the village. Availing ourselves of the permission, we spread our carpets under the shade of a magnificent fig-tree, at the foot of which ran a slender water-course. The inhabitants supplied us with bread, fruit, and cheese ; simple fare it is true, but, being hungry, extremely palatable. We had "no wine," but the water was delicious. It came from the only large spring in the neighbourhood, about twenty yards off from where we were sitting, and must therefore have flown from the same fountain, at which water was drawn at the time of our Saviour's visit. The latter is walled round with masonry. Several young women were filling pitchers, for the afternoon's meal. These pitchers are about two feet high, of compact

"This beginning of miracles did Jesus in Cana of Galilee." (St. John ii. 11.)

limestone, of which the country abounds.* The ruins of a house, now converted into a chapel, were shown us, as the scene of the miracle; but it did not excite in us that interest which the more indelible feature, the fountain, had done. The latter required no popular tradition to support its claims to identity. This was the birth-place of Nathaniel, afterwards called Bartholomew, the disciple; and our Lord was at this place, when the nobleman from Capernaum besought him in behalf of his son, and heard from him the cheering words, "Thy son liveth."

The road from hence to Nazareth lies over a series of chalky hills, overgrown with low shrubs. Only one village appears in the interval. Having tarried in Cana, it was late when we reached the convent gates. We found them shut, but, being recognised by the keeper, we were admitted, and hastened to the bedside of our sick friend M. de Cadalvene, whose state of health happily had improved during our absence.

Sept. 6. Whilst sitting this afternoon on one of the eminences that surround the valley of Nazareth,

"And there were there six water-pots of stone."