In various parts of its extended surface, some of the more peacefully-inclined Bedouin tribes (but still members of the great family of Ishmael) are to this day seen living under tents surrounded by their flocks, for the sake of the rich pasture it affords. Thus did the patriarchs of old wander with their cattle amongst the towns and villages of Canaan and feed them, even in the most populous districts, without molestation. In the first ages of Jewish history, as well as during the Roman Empire and the Crusades, and even in latter times, it has been the scene of many a memorable contest, and perhaps no soil has ever been so saturated with human gore as that of the plain we now see at our feet.* Here it was that Barak, descending with his ten thousand men from Mount Thabor, discomfited Sisera " and all his chariots, even nine hundred chariots of iron, and all the men that were with him, etc. (see Judg. iv. et seq.) Here also it was that Josiah, king of Judah, fought in disguise against Necho king of Egypt, and fell by the arrows of his antagonist. (2 Kings xxiii. 29.) A recent traveller, who crossed the plain in its whole

extent, computes it to be at least fifteen miles square, making allowances for some apparent irregularities. Though it bears the title of "plain," yet it abounds with hills, which, in the view of it from the adjacent mountains, shrink into nothing. From this height not a town or village is visible to the naked eye, and very few with the aid of the glass. In the direction of Nablous, lying among the mountains of Ephraim, we fancy we can distinguish Ebal and Gerizim, which we were prevented seeing on our way hither from Jerusalem. We cannot discern the Mediterranean. We had remained some time in the contemplation of these and the surrounding objects, replete with the deepest interest, when our attention was called to the scriptural and classic ground on which we were standing. Here Deborah and Barak assembled their army before the battle of Sisera (Judg. iv.); and in the wars with the Romans which terminated the existence of the Jewish state, the top of Thabor was fortified by Josephus, who afterwards became the historian of his nation. A few paces from us were the ruins of a chapel, recording the scene of our Lord's Transfiguration. And after six days, Jesus taketh Peter,

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James, and John his brother, and bringeth them up

into an high mountain apart," and was transfigured before them etc., etc., (Mathew, xviii.)* Three altars have been erected here, in commemoration of the three tabernacles, which St. Peter proposed to build, "one for thee (our Lord), and one for Moses, and one for Elias." This almost insulated mountain, in shape an oblong with a truncated cone, rising fifteen hundred feet above the level of the plain in which it stands and difficult of access, must at all times have been a strong military position. Evidences of this nature are sufficiently indicated by the remains of walls and trenches by which it is surrounded, particularly on the north and north-east sides. There are also several cisterns for preserving rain water, but no longer used for such purposes. At present it is only occupied by a few peasants, perhaps refugees, who cultivate a portion of it, just

* Some controversy has arisen with respect to the proper interpretation of the words xar' idav, whether it relates to the situation of the mountain, or whether it should be understood only in the sense of privately, or by themselves. Whilst critics are disputing, the authority of St Jerome, who could have had no interest in the matter, is rejected by certain writers as" suspicious!"

sufficient for their existence. They seemed surprised and uneasy at our visit; so seldom is their solitude broken in upon by strangers.

Having given directions to the guide to return with the horses by the path we came, we descended the precipitous side of the mountain, leading down into the plain of Saphet. Here we fell into the high road from Acre and the coast to Damascus. It brought us in a few minutes to a large caravanserai, strongly fortified, and called Khan of Djebel Thor (Mount Thabor). A fair is held here once a-week, and is frequented chiefly by the shopkeepers of Tiberias, who barter their merchandize for cattle. We were invited to stop here during the heat of the day, but we did not like the appearance of the people, and so declined the offer.

From hence we traversed a fine undulating country, the soil of which was rich, though only partially cultivated, till we came to the river Jordan, distant about four hours from the Khan. During this interval I suffered much from the heat; not a tree nor a shrub presenting itself to afford us the slightest shelter from the burning rays of the sun. Fortu

nately, I had brought with me a Bedouin Keffié, or kerchief, which I fastened round my head, under my turban. In this manner I reached the Jordan. Here we took shelter under the arches of a ruined bridge which crosses the river a little below the village of Szammagh,* near the spot where it issues from the lake. On the opposite bank there is a level plain of some extent, commanded by the Arabs, who make frequent incursions into these parts. At the approach of harvest, guards are placed here from Tiberias, to ensure the crops to the cultivator.+

Eight or ten miles to the south is Bisan, the Bethshan of Scripture, and the Scythopolis of the Greek and Roman writers. It was the largest city of the Decapolis, and the only one on this side of the Jordan. After the defeat of the Israelites, and the death of Saul and his sons, the Philistines fastened the body of Saul to the walls of this place, whence the men of Jabesh-Gilead took it down and carried it away. The remains of a Roman theatre, now

The Arabic word for fish.

"They shall eat thy fruits, and they shall drink thy milk. Ezekiel, xxv. 4.