steps. It is built on a conical eminence overhanging the sea, and surrounded on the land side with Saracenic walls, with towers at unequal intervals. The houses, which are of stone, rise in terraces from the water's edge, and present, as approached from the sea, a very singular yet agreeable appearance; particularly to eyes wearied (as ours were), with the monotonous aspect of the mud-built villages of Lower Egypt. But this advantage is lost in the absence of all appearance of verdure. Excepting in the immediate vicinity, where some few palm trees (the symbol of Palestine and the banner of the soil) raise their stately heads; the coast is remarkably dreary, consisting for the most part of low naked sand hills. The settled population of Jaffa does not exceed four thousand souls, of whom one fourth are Christians. It cannot be called a commercial town,

"The land whither thou goes!""is not as the land of Egypt," "but a land of hills and valleys," Deut. xi. 10, 11.

The palm-tree figures on several Roman coins, recording the conquest of Judæa. On the one which forms the vignette to the title-page of this volume, the Emperor Vespasian is represented :-standing; in his right hand a spear; his right foot on a helmet; and a disconsolate woman at the foot of a palm tree.

for there is very little trade, the only business of the place being derived from the supplies necessary for pilgrims going to and from Jerusalem, of which it is the port.

Jaffa, or Yaffa as it is called by the natives, is the representative of the ancient Joppa, so often alluded to in holy writ. The timber hewn on Mount Lebanon for Solomon's temple was floated to this port. (2 Chron. xi. 16.) Here the prophet Jonah embarked for Tarshish. (Jon. i. 8.) Here also Peter raised Tabitha from the dead, (Acts ix. 36, 42.) and Simon the tanner resided. Noah is said to have built the ark in this place, and fabulous history relates that Andromache was here chained to the rock, and that Perseus washed his wounds here, which he had received in his combat with the Centaurs. In this harbour Judas Macchabeus burnt the Syrian fleet. In modern times it has acquired a painful celebrity from the twofold acts of inhumanity with which the memory of Buonaparte stands charged, though attempts have been made to attenuate their enormity. The hospital where he is accused of having poisoned his sick soldiers, to prevent their falling into the hands of the Turks, is now the Armenian convent

The scene of the massacre of his prisoners is on the beach, about a mile to the south of the town.

The tract of country lying between Jaffa and Gaza westward of the mountains of Juda, and distinguished as the plain of the Mediterranean Sea, was the ancient territory of the Philistines, and included the five cities of Gaza, Askelon, Ashdod, Gath, and Ekron. This district still bears the name of Phalastin; and may be distinguished as Palestine Proper. Foltowing the line of coast to the south, in the interval between Jaffa and El-Arish, the natural frontier of Palestine on this side, several towns remarkable in the history of the Philistines are still in existence, though all fallen from their ancient grandeur and importance. Some present nothing but their ruins. I shall enumerate them in the order in which they appear on the map.

At one hour from Jaffa is Yabne, the ancient Jabnen or Jamnia, still a considerable village. At four hours' journey, or about twelve miles, is Edzoud, the ancient Azotus, and the Ashdod of Scripture. (Chron. xxvi. 6.) The route to it lies over an undulating surface, partially cultivated with grain and thistles. The town stands on the summit

of a grassy hill, with luxuriant pasture around it. This was one of the five Satrapies of the Philistines, who when they had taken the Ark of God from the Israelites, brought it to Ashdod, and carried it into the house of Dagon their God. There are no ruins. On quitting Ashdod, the traveller passes through the ruined village of Tookrair, situated on the top of a hill, fixed upon by some as occupying the site of Ekron, once a powerful city; but it was prophesied "Ekron shall be rooted up," and therefore it is explained, why a diversity of opinions should exist with respect to its site. The very name is missing. Its territory was the border of the land of Judæa. Crossing the bed of a river by a broad stone bridge, he reaches in one hour and a half the ruins of Askelon, to the westward of the road to Gaza, and near the sea; another of the proud Satrapies of the Lords of the Philistines-but at the present day, without a single inhabitant within its walls! The prophecy of Ezekiel concerning this city is thus literally fulfilled "It shall be a desolation." And what Zechariah said of it is equally come true; "Askelon shall not be inhabited." Askelon was easily taken by the crusaders. who strengthened the

fortifications, but it was subsequently retaken by Salah 'ddin, who destroyed the works made by the Christians. At a day's journey and a half from Jaffa is Gaza. It occupies the summit of a mound about three miles from the sea. This eminence is about two miles in circumference, and appears to have been wholly enclosed within the ancient fortifications, and, according to the ancient mode of warfare, must have been a place of considerable strength. There are no antiquities of any consequence. In several parts of the town may be seen scattered columns of grey granite. The inhabitants are between two and three thousand, consisting of a mixed population of Turks and Arabs. The town, bereaved of its king, and bald of all its fortifications, is now governed by a Turkish Aga *. Here the caravans take in their supplies for their passage across the desert of Suez. Crossing the Wady Gaza, in one hour from the town is Dair. At two hours more is Khan Younes (Jenysus), situated on an eminence on the north side of the valley. This is the last village which pays tri

"The King shall perish from Gaza." "Baldness is come upon Gaza." See Zec. ix. 5, and Ezek. xxv. 16.