had travelled sufficiently in these parts to be aware that, in our quality of Europeans, we should be expected, though not bound, to find provisions for our companions as well as for ourselves. Accordingly, at the dinner hour, directions were given to increase the quantity of pilaf usually required on these occasions. The captain and the Turk were our guests; after which the bowl was carried to the crew, and finally to the slaves.-The wind throughout the day was tolerably fair, and we made considerable way; but it fell as the sun went down, and a dead calm ensued.-We passed the night in conversation, singing, and gazing upon the starry firmament,

Aug. 10. The usual ennui attendant upon a seavoyage, we experienced on this occasion, but in a more sensible degree. Our vessel not being decked, we were not able to stir from the position we first took up, which, from the number of passengers on board, was necessarily cramped and confined. As we lay motionless on the wide expanse, we suffered much from the heat, which was excessive, and not relieved by a breath of air, until towards the evening, when a gentle ripple from the westward an

nounced the approach of the wind, of which we stood so much in need.

Aug. 11. Early this morning we descried landbut contrary to our expectations, instead of its being the port to which we were bound, we found the vessel steering direct for Mount Carmel. Upon reproaching the reiss for so great a deviation from the direct course, having the wind in his favour, he candidly acknowledged, that presuming time to be less an object of consideration with us than that of our personal safety, he had carefully avoided the flat shores of Egypt, and had made for the high land just mentioned. It is in fact one of the most conspicuous features on the Syrian coast, and as no reckoning had been kept, and as, with the exception of the compass, we had no nautical instrument on board, we felt inclined to give him credit for his prudence, thus artfully put forth; but, having once recognized our position, we directed him to run down the coast to the southward, at the same time taking ourselves the tiller in hand. At three, p.m. we arrived off Jaffa. Upon making a signal, a boat

pushed off from the

town, and came alongside to

take us on shore. Having made some preliminary

enquiries of the boatmen respecting the health of the place, we lowered our luggage into their frail transport and committed ourselves to their care, not, however, without some apprehension, on account of their apparent awkwardness. In the meanwhile, the bark pursued its course to Beirout. In our passage up to the wharf, we passed close under an Austrian brig lying in the roads, having brought down from Constantinople a living cargo, consisting of Greek, Armenian, and Russian pilgrims, bound to the Holy City. The anchorage here is not secure. It is too near a ledge of rocks which lie off the town;* consequently, in bad weather, ships prefer putting to sea, to trusting to their cables. In our way to the landing-place, we passed through what appeared to be, the ancient port. Whatever might have been its former capabilites, it can at present only admit small boats, and only a few of them were to be seen. Το judge from the number of idle persons who had assembled on the quays, to see the milordoi †

⚫ When Vespasian approached the city, the inhabitants, who were all pirates, fled to their ships, but a storm coming on, they were dashed to pieces on these rocks.

The name generally given to European travellers throughout the East.

land, our arrival here had created some sensation. But if we were the object of their curiosity, we saw in the crowds that grouped around us, wherewith to excite ours. Amongst the latter, were several persons to whom the rest appeared to show a sort of deference, habited partly in the Oriental and partly in the European fashion. Their general mise was that adopted by the merchants of the Levant, which consists in a long tunic or gown of striped cotton or silk, called kombas, and ample drawers (sherwâl); but instead of the turban, they wore upon their heads, a French or Spanish cocked hat! Upon enquiring the character of these personages, I was informed that they were the representatives of the European powers, who had come down to greet us on our arrival; and so it appeared to be the case, for scarcely had we put foot on shore than a struggle ensued for the possession of our persons. Having declared my nationality, I was claimed by the English agent, Signior Damiani, a Levantine, and, in spite of myself, obliged to part company with my friends, who had already surrendered themselves to their respective consuls. I have no reason, however, to regret having made this gen

tleman's acquaintance. He conducted me to his house, which, by the by, he assured me, stood on the site of that of Simon the tanner, St. Peter's host! As far as situation goes, there was no contesting the probability, being "by the sea-side" close to the water's edge. Nor was I disposed to dispute local tradition, immediately on arriving in a country where so much of the interest of all one sees, depends upon association. As soon as I was left to myself, I began to indulge in many of the reflections that arose out of the novelty of my situation. By setting foot on the Holy Land, I had accomplished the fervent wish, the great desire of my heart. But at the time I first conceived this wish, in my younger days, the attainment of it appeared fraught with insuperable difficulties, and even now that I was actually treading its sacred shores, I could hardly bring myself to believe in the reality of what I saw and felt.

Aug. 12.-Accompanied by my amiable host, I set out this morning to visit the town and fortifications of Jaffa. The former may be literally called a "town of stairs," for owing to the inequality of the ground on which it stands, most of the streets are paved in