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of them, is the village of Siloam, consisting of a few small huts, partly built, and partly hewn out of the rock, in the steep sides of a hill, which the Christians call the Mount of Offence or Corruption, where Solomon, in his declining years, "did build a high place for Chemosh, the abomination of Moab, and for Molock, the abomination of the children of Ammon." (1 Kings, xi. 7.) Descending into the valley, and crossing the brook Kedron, we shortly came to the Pool of Siloam, called after the village to which it lies adjacent.

The Pool of Siloam was twofold, viz. upper and lower. The upper reservoir or pool, called the King's pool, probably watered the King's gardenwhile the lower pool seems to have been designed for the use of the inhabitants. It is perhaps the same as En-Rogel, or the Fuller's Fountain, and as there is no other fountain or watercourse in this neighbourhood, we may presume it was here that Solomon was anointed King by Zadock, the priest, and Nathan, the prophet. Both the reservoirs were supplied from the fountain of Siloam. The stream issues by a subterraneous passage from under a rock, and falls into a small basin of no great depth.

It was formerly covered with a chapel, erected to commemorate the miraculous cure, by our Saviour, of the man born blind. The modern descent to the fountain is by a flight of sixteen steps, leading down to a platform, and a flight of thirteen more down to the water, whence it is sometimes called the "Fountain of Stairs." The passage under the mountain has evidently been formed by art, and, by stooping a little, one may walk along it to a great distance under the mountain. The water, as it overflows the pool, formerly passed by a subterraneous course to the lower pool, which lies still further to the southward, but it is now dry. I observed some pilgrims, after drinking of it, put it to their eyes, which I suppose they did in commemoration of the miracle alluded to above, "Go, wash in the pool of Siloam." (St. John ix. 7.)

From this we ascended by a steep path, which brought us into the town, by what was called the Dung-gate (Porta Sterquilinaria), a name it is supposed to have received, from the filth of the beasts that were sacrificed, being carried from the temple through this gate. (Neh. xii. 31.) It is built in the eastern wall, to the south of the great Mosque, to

which it is contiguous. It will only admit foot passengers. We followed the street which leads to the Holy Sepulchre, having previously signified our wish of passing one whole night within its walls. On our arrival there we found the friars assembled in the chapel of the Apparition. A lighted wax taper being put into our hands, we commenced following the procession, which is daily made at this hour (sun-set), to the several stations* established to commemorate our Saviour's passion. At each of these stations, an appropriate hymn was sung. The ceremony being over (we dispensed with that of washing the pilgrims' feet), we retired to the refectory to supper.

The monks here, usually about ten in number, are the special guardians of the Sepulchre. They are relieved by others at intervals. Setting aside the devotional question, it is not a very enviable post, being shut up in low damp cells, with no other occupation, as Maundrell observes, than "praying and trimming lamps." It is even said, that they are sent

* For these, see the detailed description of the Holy Sepulchre, beginning page 43.

+ See Appendix. No. 22.

here by way of punishment, and that their confinement lasts, not only many months, but years. If so, the discipline of the order must be more severe than is generally supposed to be the case. Such a life as this, coupled with the personal indignities and affronts, to which they are daily and hourly exposed, cannot surely excite the envy of It is but fair therefore to presume, that any one. those who devote themselves to the care of souls in this land, are actuated by higher and more noble motives, than what is attributed to them by their enemies. In a country where apostacy holds out so many temporal advantages, it is a matter of no small difficulty for the spiritual shepherd even to keep the sheep within the fold. Let us spare them, then, all gratuitous abuse.

Aug. 23. Shortly after midnight, we were called up to assist at Matins. As we had only thrown ourselves down on the beds assigned to us, we were soon prepared to obey the summons, notwithstanding the unseasonable hour for rising from one's couch. I had witnessed the imposing ceremonies (funzione) of the Holy Week in St. Peter's at Rome, and had attended divine service in the cathedral at

Seville, the two most beautiful Christian Temples of Grecian and Gothic architecture,-but no where did I ever feel so impressed with religious awe, as when, on this occasion, I looked down from the galleries that surround the Holy Sepulchre, and listened to the hymns, chaunted by the monks in the still hour of night, around the very tomb of our Lord. In point of scenic effect it was an admirable subject for the pencil of a Rembrandt. Only a few torches were burning; so that amidst the heavy architectural details of the Basilick, thus thrown into the shade, the white marble floor -the sides of a few columns-and the wrinkled faces and silvered hair of the aged friars, encased in a rim of light, alone appeared in high relief.

Whilst waiting for the keeper to arrive and open the doors of the church, we inspected some of the curiosities contained in the Chamber of Antiquities. Foremost amongst these relics were the sword and spurs of Godfrey of Bouillon. The former is a long straight blade, worn and become rusty by eight centuries disuse. They are worn at the installation of the Knights of the Holy Sepulchre.* In

* See Appendix. No. 23.

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