RELIGIOUS MAGAZINE, OR SPIRIT OF THE FOREIGN THEOLOGICAL JOURNALS AND REVIEWS AUGUST, 1829. From the Christian Observer. In the brief review, in our number for last March, of" Three Years in Italy, with Illustrations of the present State of Religion in the Country," we promised our readers some further extracts from that interesting volume; a principal charm of which is, that it combines with the most lively description of scenery, manners, and objects of taste or curiosity, a tenderness, simplicity, and, above all, a deep feeling of piety, which render every page grateful to the Christian mind. The following are extracts: now shown. The depredations of these people cause them to be spoken of here with detestation. With a deep sigh my conductors pointed out to me in the magnificent palace of the doge, empty spaces once filled by fine statues and painting. Little remains to be admired but the splendid architecture, and the noble Spanish marble pillars, which could not be removed. But these I pass over, to tell you what above all that I saw this day most delighted my eyes; the view from the dome of the church Carignan. I long to describe it so as to give you some idea of it; but that will not be possible. The towering Apennines, rising behind the mountain on which the town is built, appear to form an insurmountable barrier, and to close it in from every danger, while the foaming ocean rolls beneath, dashing up its proud waves with furious impetuosity. The whole scene was so sublime, that speech was impossible. While what I saw is fresh in my memory, I would describe Genoa to you; but I despair of giving any idea of it. On my first landing every thing appeared strange, and unlike any thing which had ever seen before; the streets so narrow, that a carriage could not drive through them; and the houses so high Wind and tide being favourable, we set sail as to exclude the sun from ever shining upon for Leghorn. Mrs. O—-t and her daughter them. This I found of advantage in keeping | vied with each other in paying attention to off the intense heat of the sun, but it gives me; and I felt quite at home with them. As them a very gloomy appearance. The streets soon as we were all seated, Mrs. O -t said are beautifully flagged, and remarkably clean; to me, that she was in the practice of having on each side adorned with stands of fruits and daily prayers with her family; that she never flowers, arranged with the most exquisite allowed travelling to interrupt it; and that taste. The fruits were principally strawber- now they were just going to begin the serries and cherries. The finest and largest vice. Bibles and prayer-books being produced, which I ever saw, sold at the rate of a penny her son and eldest daughter, with great seria pound. Amongst the flowers I remarked ousness and devotion, read the morning sermagnificent carnations, such as our gardens vice of our church in French, that language never produce: I am told they are indigenous being preferred, because their governess and here. Flowers are cultivated with great care servants did not understand English. After and expense; it being the custom, when a gen-prayers all joined in singing psalms and hymns tleman admires a lady, to present her every morning with a bouquet, until the marriage ceremony takes place when this is long deferred, the expense becomes enormous, it being not uncommon to give half a guinea for a bouquet. : Mrs. Walsh accompanied me to the most remarkable churches and palaces; to the Duomo, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, in which they tell you his ashes are deposited, and the charger, or basin, in which the daughter of Herodias carried his head to her mother. This charger, which had the credit of being a pure emerald, I was afterwards told, had excited the cupidity of the French when in possession of Genoa; and they carried it off accordingly, substituting in its place one of glass, which is Rol Max of praise. Surely a joyful and pleasant thing it is to be thankful! Never did accents sound so harmonious in my ears; and never was there a scene better calculated to inspire harmony divine. Seated under a cloudless sky, and shaded by a light awning from the scorching sunbeams, we skimmed along the unruffled deep, close by the coast, which presented an ever varying scene of loveliness, the bay of Genoa in magnificent grandeur bounding our prospect. Mr. Owen then amused himself by taking sketches of the beautiful scenery, which he seemed to do in a masterly style, whilst one of the young ladies read aloud. Reading, working, drawing, and cheerful conversation, occupied the day so pleasantly, that it seemed rapidly to draw to a close; and after an evening hymn and prayer, we laid down to sleep-and rose again-for the Lord sustained us; and I trust with our hearts, as well as with our voices, we blessed His holy name. As soon as the deck was cleared we again joined in family worship, as on the preceding day. The manner of these young people to each other as well as to their beloved parent, showed me how Christians ought to live together; but, alas! how seldom do we see it so beautifully exemplified. At Ariccia, the worship of Diana, once the tutelary goddess of this place, is now superseded by that of the Virgin. Over the door of the church dedicated to her is that inscription in Latin so shocking to the eye of a Protestant, "Sacred to Mary, equal to God the Father." This inscription is also seen on one of the churches in the Corso at Rome, and on many others in Italy. My brother-in-law, with his family, passed last summer in this place, and had an opportunity of witnessing some of their ceremonies. On St. Anne's day two little girls were brought into the church, one to represent St. Anne, the other the Virgin, whose distinguishing badge was a crown on her head. The latter was placed on an eminence before the high altar; and the whole congregation knelt before this little representative of the queen of heaven. Appii Forum.-You would laugh if you were to see my contrivances to write in this place, which is better fitted for the accommodation of pigs than of human beings. The floor is strewed with straw. How we shall manage to get breakfast I do not know. There are neither tables nor chairs, nor houses near from whence we could procure them: Sir Walter tells me that Horace notices this place as one of bad accommodation. We were in the carriage about four o'clock, and entered those formidable marshes, which doom to fever so many of those who inhale their pestilential air. Our crossing them in July was said to be more than commonly hazardous, and we were particularly warned to guard against the drowsiness which the air induces. We passed a place where stands a vestige of what is said to be the Three Taverns mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles. Our elder party were seized with the predicted drowsiness, from which the children were entirely exempt, and used every exertion to rouse us. Naples is a magnificent town, in beauty far surpassing any expectation which I had formed. We are in delightful apartments in the Palazzo Serignan, Fontana Medina. Before us is a fountain throwing up its sparkling spray. Vesuvius stands opposite our windows, and there is nothing to intercept our view of it. We sit for hours on the balcony watching, by day, volumes of smoke issuing from the crater, and, at night, bright flames of fire, and streams of red hot lava, flowing down the side of this awful mountain. clare that the judgments of the Lord are over the earth. "Let him touch the mountains, and they will smoke:" at his word the earth is rent, towns are swallowed up, and the plains are laid waste; but, without his permission, not a sparrow can fall to the ground. The Christian feels secure under His superintending providence, as he journeys on his way; and fears no evil, even though he passes through the valley of the shadow of death. Sunday at Sorrento.-We have one great want here; we have no church service performed. There is no clergyman to read it to us, and the Sunday appears very different to us from what it used to do. Both here and at Rome, the bells pealing on all sides convey a melancholy sound, for there is none of them calling us to worship. We could not mingle in the worship of we know not what; for it is not merely an unknown language which we hear, but divers ceremonies are performed which I cannot understand. Oh what a privilege to be born in a land where the truths of God are declared in our native tongue, and the understanding and the heart may unite in his public worship. Our Roman Catholic servant told me to-day, that she had an advantage over me, for that the mass was the same in all countries. If such services are acceptable to God, why does St. Paul, in the xivth chapter of the first epistle to the Corinthians, enforce the necessity of praying in a language which is understood by the worshippers. Yesterday we visited Pompeii, the place which appears to me the most interesting place in the world. How shall I relate to you the wonder of this town, its houses, temples, and streets, all again brought to view, where, from many vestiges still remaining, the very employments of its inhabitants may be traced! In one place, supposed to have been a coffeehouse, the marks are still to be seen, where the wet cups had stained the slab of marble before the door. In a shop where oil had been ́ sold, the jars still remain. In another house, all the apparatus of a lady's toilette was discovered, combs, needles, and rouge: the last is exactly the same kind as that now made; the combs so rough and coarse that they would scarcely be used upon our horses, the needles as large as bodkins. There was found likewise a whole dessert of fruit, chesnuts, raisins, bread, wine, oil, &c. &c. The wine and oil in powder, the fruits reduced to ashes, but still preserving their forms; there were also eggs unbroken. We drove first to the amphitheatre, which is in perfect preservation, and saw the arena, the seats for the spectators, of which it is said to have contained 35,000, the dens for the wild beasts, &c. Leaving our carriage, which we could take no further, we explored the other wonders of this once flourishing city, now a mass of roofless houses; but even in this state creating an interest which it could not have excited in the height of its prosperity. Conceive the effect of walking through streets, Looking round upon this enchanting country, one is led to imagine that an earthly para-houses, temples, and theatres, which for nearly dise is prepared for the heart of man; but the charms of security are wanting; marks of the devastating earthquake, volcanic irruption, and great convulsions of nature, visibly de two thousand years lay buried so entirely under ashes and pumice-stone, that until accidentally discovered, the place where it stands could not be ascertained. The houses, appeared to me of the same description as that at Pollio's Villa, the apartments very small, surrounding a square, in the centre of which is a fountain. The walls in many of the apartments are painted in fresco; the colours are quite vivid, and the designs of most of them very elegant, light dancing figures in the most graceful attitudes, as large as life, in compartments encircled by flowers. The mosaic floors in many of the houses still remain in beautiful preservation, as also the courts before the houses paved with black and white mosaic. The house of Sallust, known by his name inscribed upon it in large letters, is the most remarkable of these. If we contrast the original state of this city, with the scene which it now presents, what a lesson does it afford! Let us picture to our imagination the busy crowd with all their various occupations, some pressing forward to the scene of festive joy, some filling the idol temples, some flocking to the courts of justice, some standing idle in the market-place, or dealing out their wares to those who bid for them: all thoughtless of the impending danger, when the decree went forth and the destructive shower of ashes overwhelmed them. In vain did they call on their gods to deliver them. They were metal and stone; they could not hear. At the omnipotent command of the Most High, from the mountain issued forth coals of fire. The thick darkness involved them, and suddenly were hurled in one common destruction, the idols, their temples, and their worshippers. In a dark cellar, under ground, twenty-seven miserable fugitives sought refuge here they found only a prolongation of misery. It is seen, by a breach in the wall, that they had been endeavouring to effect an escape. But even here the fire penetrated, and all around was filled with cinders and ashes, on which the rain falling, formed a kind of cement, in which the skeletons were found encrusted. at twelve crowns each, though worth perhaps forty; but they were content to ask the smaller sum, because it is contrary to law to excavate for them. The expense of doing it is too great for the Neapolitan government, and their own collection is already so numerous, that they do not desire to add to it; yet such is their illiberality, that they will not allow others to make, even at their own expense, these excavations, or to possess the fruits of them. But enough of the tombs: I am afraid that you will be as tired of the subject as I am of writing upon them, yet we are far from being wearied of seeing them. Indeed, I fear there is too much amusement and interest in these curious investigations; at least, in my own case, I find my thoughts often occupied with them, to the exclusion of better things. Yet, here too a lesson of instruction may be received, where we are forcibly reminded that generation after generation passes away. And where are now this crowd of immortal spirits once inhabiting this earth, who busied themselves with vain and fleeting things, and knew not from whence they came or whither they were going? Can we behold and reflect, without blessing the Lord, for causing the light of revelation to dispel these clouds of darkness, in making known to us himself as our Creator, his Son as our Redeemer, and his Holy Spirit as our Sanctifier? We quitted Naples this morning. Our first stage was Aversa, where we saw another of Murat's grand institutions,-an asylum for insane persons, sane persons, conducted on the most humane plan; in all points superior, perhaps, to any other of the kind in the world. The ease, comfort, and even amusement of the unfortunate maniacs, are studied in every possible way; every source of irritation is removed, and they are treated as if they had no malady: even the use of knives and forks is permitted: and though the maniacs appear to walk about at large, and think they are under no control, a watchful guardian attends all their steps, so that no mischief ever occurs. Their tastes and inclinations are studied, and whatever has power to charm or soothe is resorted to; if music, there is a great variety of instruments, and a number of good performers; and if read Pompeii was but just recovering the effect of a great earthquake, when this visitation buried it from mortal view. Many passages Many passages of the Psalms recurred to my recollection, whilst I saw that flaming mountain before me, and marks of devastation all around. (Psal. cxiv. 32; xviii. 7, 13; xcvii.) These denunciations seem still to hang over this country.ing, there are books. We were acquainted Oh, may the happy time soon arrive, when darkness may no longer overshadow this people, that the veil may be taken from their eyes, that they may obey the ordinance of God rather than that of man, that His holy book may be in their hands, and its precepts engraven on their hearts! Then shall the valleys sing for joy! Mr. R our medical attendant, introduced us to his wife, who is a Maltese. Their little baby, of a few weeks old, was brought. Its papa, seeing us look with wonder at the conspicuous ear-rings which were suspended from its little ears, said laughing, "Advantage was taken of my absence, two hours after the birth of the infant, to do that business." He then told us that it is a Neapolitan custom to pierce the ears of the children as soon as they are born. Whilst we were at Sorrento, a tomb was discovered by some labourers, who offered two of the vases which it contained, to Sir Walter, with one instance in which this humane treatment succeeded admirably. A country woman of our own, whose intellect failed under the pressure of a variety of afflicting circumstances, was, by some one who had previously known her, found a wretched and forlorn wanderer in the streets of Naples: he brought her to Aversa, where, in a short time, she recovered her reason, and was restored to her family. At half-past three o'clock we once more entered the gates of Rome: but four days ago we left Naples, where all was bustle and animation; here, scarcely an individual moved along the silent streets, where solemnity and gloom mark the abode of fallen grandeur. We spent two hours in the Coliseum, wandering through its broken porticos and arches. Every feeling of veneration and of horror was excited, as we contemplated this interesting ruin. How degrading when we think of the purpose for which the enormous pile was He of the identical straw on which he was laid in the manger. They also show the finger which St. Thomas thrust into the Saviour's side. Since I wrote last, I have been at a very fine show; which I thought very ridiculous, and worse than ridiculous indeed, for part of it was impious. It was the blessing of the candles in the pope's chapel at the Quirinal; and a representation of our Lord's triumphant entrance into Jerusalem. The pope, in his pontifical robes, was seated on a throne beside the reared! when we reflect that human creatures could look with pleasure on their fellow-beings, writhing under the grasp of ferocious beasts, or inhumanly mangling each other! The gladiators are said to have been criminals; but even so, be their crimes ever so aggravated, a Christian would turn with horror from the barbarous spectacle, nor could conceive the possibility of finding pleasure in witnessing the agony even of the vilest reptile that crawls on the ground. What has brought about the marvellous change? The Son of God descend-high altar; cardinals, bishops, and the senaed from the mansions of glory, from the throne of his brightness, to dwell among this degenerate race, to make the light shine in darkness. By his example and precepts, he taught the law of love "Love to all! even those who despitefully use us and persecute us." suffered for his betrayers, and even in his last agony, said, "Father, forgive them, for they know not what they do!" and here, in this very spot, his example was followed. On this ground, consecrated by the blood of the martyrs, Christians remembered and followed the example of their Lord. Strong in faith, they yielded up their lives a willing sacrifice, rejoicing that they were counted worthy to suffer, even while held in the grasp of the lion and the bear; bearing with meekness the taunts of hearts more ferocious than either. Through faith they conquered, and through faith were triumphantly borne to the arms of their Redeemer, whose testimony they had sealed with their blood, and joined the noble army of martyrs, in the everlasting realms of light. I have had a pleasant walk with the children, to see the interesting spot allotted as a burying-place for Protestant foreigners. It is just on the outside of the ancient walls of Rome, part of which still remain in the place where stands the pyramid of Caius Cestius. We wandered among the tombs for a considerable time, reading the inscriptions on the stones, which record the early death of many an English youth and maiden, who probably had left their native home with all the buoyant expectation of their years: but the gay visions are flown. Here, in this narrow spot, their deserted bodies moulder in the dust, while their mourning parents are obliged to retrace their solitary journey, deprived of those for whose sakes they were probably induced to visit foreign climes. Many such reflections occupied my thoughts as I lingered round this sacred repository of the dead, where no inclosure is permitted to guard the tombs from the insults of bigotry. Many of them have been broken and defaced with mallets by an unrestrained rabble, who claim merit to themselves in thus evincing their detestation of heretics. I am just returned from seeing some churches. That of Santa Cecilia Trastevere interested me very much. In a part of the church railed in, many coffers and vases are filled with the relics of martyrs: two of them contain the clothes of St. Cecilia, and the cotton dipped in the blood which flowed from her wounds. While I am on the subject, I will mention one or two exhibited at St. Peter's at this season only. One of them is a little shirt, made by the Madonna for her Son, and some tors, being all present, in vestments splendidly embroidered. A long procession, formed of the orders of monks from all the different convents and monasteries, entered the chapel singing, each holding in his hand a large wax candle, which was laid aside until after the celebration of mass, when each monk resumed his candle, and presented it kneeling at the foot of the throne, while the pope blessed it. The number of candles being very great, and each separately blessed, much time was wasted, which, I could not help thinking, might as well have been spared, by blessing the whole at once. The poor feeble old pope was nearly exhausted with the frequent repetition of the same words. Well it may be said that the carnival is a time of madness. Each person seems to vie with the other who will be most ridiculous. For a short time the numberless grotesque figures as they pass, excite laughter; but soon disgust and weariness take place of amusement at seeing rational beings transform themselves into idiots, madmen, and monkeys, which animal in face and gesture they delight to imitate. I was grieved to find that our own countrymen did not content themselves with being spectators but entered with perhaps more eagerness into all these follies than the Romans themselves. Our walk this day was to see the mosaic manufacture in one of the buildings connected with the Vatican; where are also the prisons of the Inquisition. Our cicerone was the children's drawing-master, who appeared afraid to speak aloud as he pointed them out to us, lest, as he said, he should be overheard by some lurking emissary of that infernal power, which yet works, though not to the same extent as formerly. Still some wretched prisoners groan out their melancholy days in these dark and dismal dungeons, even the exterior of which cannot be contemplated without horror. The church dedicated to the protomartyr, St. Stephen, is adorned with frescos representing martyrdoms, at the different periods of the Christian persecution. Some of them are almost too horrible to look upon: yet still in contemplating them, the Christian inwardly rejoices in the certainty that those sufferings were comparatively but for a moment; that enduring to the end and undauntedly sealing their testimony with their blood, they passed into that glorious rest which remaineth for all the people of God. Their afflictions were indeed light and transient, affecting only that mortal part which must soon put on immortality. O blessed Redeemer of fallen man, how then can we in these latter times basely deny Thee! we, whose privilege it is in security and peace to sound thy praise! Over the high altar, at Orvieto, Sir. W. observed a little door, which Manicucci, who was asked for an explanation, said, was the door by which the Santo Spirito entered on Whit-Sunday. We requested a clearer explanation, and heard that a dove, surrounded by fire-works, to represent the Holy Spirit, was made to enter at that door, and so contrived, that it takes a circle round the church, lighting as it passes on the heads of each of the white marble statues of the Apostles, and resting on the high altar, where it kindles, or seems to kindle, a flame; the fire-works making a noise as it flies, to imitate the "rushing mighty wind," mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles. | | viva!" the burden of a beautiful pathetic followed a party of young men and maidens, hymn, composed by Metastasio. Just behind gaily tripping to the sound of the tambourine and pipe: close at their heels a party of children were playing at leap frog, and other childish sports. We have been in the prison of St. Peter and St. Paul, to which we descended by a flight of stairs. Of course there are miraculous legends about a place so important. In the centre of the floor is a well; which, they tell you, opened of itself at the command of St. Peter, to enable him to baptize the new converts which were brought to him. On reascending the narrow staircase our cicerone made us observe a square slab of indented marble enclosed in a wooden the face of St. Peter struck against the stone, "Look," he said, "where and left that impression." How were we surprised to find that the ladies who came to us dressed as if to adorn the theatre or ball-room, were at home in appear-frame in the wall. ance no better than cooks or kitchen maids; One old countess, whose dress when she came to visit us had been particularly fine, I could not help more particularly remarking here: she had on a dirty-looking brown gown made of cloth or stuff, with a common red cotton handkerchief pinned in the most slovenly manner across her bosom; no head-dress but her own grey hair, about three inches in length, sticking up straight like a mop which had been but little used. We were one day informed by Manicucci that his daughter was to be married in a few days. My sister congratulated him, hoping that the young lady would be happy in her choice. "There can be no doubt of it," answered Manicucci: "she knows nothing of it yet; but her mother and I have made up our mind, which is quite sufficient for her!" In this manner are marriages contracted in Italy: it is no wonder that husbands and wives wander from such homes, in search of happiness. remember that dear child who is gone telling me of this miraculous stone, and remarking, "As if the stone had been placed there en purpose for the Apostle to knock his head against, being the only one to be seen in the wall!" There are a number of the despised race at Pisa; for despised the Jews are here, as every where else. They have a superstition that when a dead body is carried out for interment, if a dog pass under the bier, the funeral must be postponed for the day, and the body is conveyed back from whence it was brought. The mob take pleasure in hunting dogs in such a direction as to make them pass under the bier, as soon as they discover the Jew's funeral procèssion. I hear that our church service is now conducted on a regular plan at Nice. Government has given up a chapel for that purpose. What a revolution in sentiment! twenty years ago the Inquisition would have interposed its strong arm. At present, it is said, that there are many Protestants, even among the Italians, near Leghorn, though the priests endeavour to persuade them that Protestants are not Christians. The Bible is carefully kept from them, nor can a copy be procured under twenty guineas: it is a great work, consisting of twenty from its price alone, a sealed book, even to many of the priests themselves. What a blessing might attend the labours of a few missionaries with the Bible in their hands! The Hindoos are scarcely in more need of them. The last time we went earlier than usual, and heard a friar preach to a numerous congregation an extraordinary sermon; the whole of which related to St. Patrice, who, he said, lived with his wife on the top of the Esquiline Hill, -that they had no children, but, being possessed of great riches, wished to dispose of them in a way the most gratifying to the Virgin, that she, pleased with their good inten-volumes, Latin and Italian; and is, therefore, tion, testified her will to them in a dream, that on the spot where they san' snow fall a church should be built to her honour, and that the snow fell accordingly where now stands the beautiful church of Santa Maria Maggiore, built by St. Patrice in obedience to the Virgin. This was the sum and substance of a sermon which lasted above half an hour; not very profitable or edifying, you will say, to those who heard it. I really think that the heathen nations are scarcely more in want of missionaries to lead them to the knowledge of the Scriptural plan of salvation than these misguided people. As we walked to the Coliseum on Sunday evening, we remarked a strange medley of religion and of festivity. In one place a group of persons assembled before a little altar reciting and sing-to ing a service to the Virgin. A few paces distant another group sat deeply occupied with card. As we advanced a little farther, we saw issuing from the Coliseum, the procession of friare, monks, and other choristers, in full cadence singing, "Viva la Croce! La Croce The priests form no small part of the population at Pisa, as in every other town in Italy. At an ordination which a friend of mine witnessed, he said there were thirty-two little boys, some of whom did not appear to have reached their tenth year, who received the first or the second order of priesthood, and thirty more who received the third. These boys wear white surplices trimmed with lace or muslin, and clerical cocked hats. It is both absurd and melancholy to see such little creatures devoted they know not what. "Palm Sunday.-The ceremonies of the holy week commence at the Quirinal Chapel, with the blessing of the palms. The ceremony was the same as the blessing of the candles : the pope was carried in and out in procession. "Wednesday.-I went to St. Peter's to hear |