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the prospect of reaching Mosul in a few hours, and meeting with our excellent Crhistian friends there.
"At noon we came in sight of the minarets and walls of Mosul and Nebly Yonas, the tomb of Jonas covering the ruins of ancient Nineveh, on the opposite side of the river. It is beautiful in the distance, under the clear sunlight of an oriental sky. The shores are clothed with green; the river flows with a broad and majestic current; the walls rise grandly in front, and I greatly enjoy the scene as we float on quietly toward both the ancient and modern city. See several of the native women on the banks of the river, their long black hair flowing down their shoulders in graceful style. The shores are also planted with watermelons that are just gathered for the market.
"The city now stands out fully before us with its walls, battlements, minarets, and towers, in stately oriental style. Sail beside the city walls -count 300 women washing and beating clothes by the river side. Come to anchor near the bridge of boats; are received by a mingled crowd of turbaned natives; a guide directs us through the muddy streets, like Stamboul, towards the house of the American missionaries; meet Mr. Marsh and Dr. Haskell coming to meet us on horseback-insist upon our mounting and riding
-streets, coffee-shops, quite like Eastern cities. Arrive at the mission house-large court with a large tree and singing birds in the centre-cordial welcome; see Mrs. Marsh and Mrs. Lobdue and the children. Ride out upon the plain outside of the city; quite like Egypt in the sky and view, and mild, mellow light. Excellent Arab horses; much enjoy the ride, also a fine walk on the housetop and view over the city. Have a delightful social prayer-meeting with the missionaries in the evening.
"Am awaked by the cheerful singing of birds in the court. This morning see Kos-ma-chiel who was formerly a Catholic Nestorian priest, and was in Rome five months where he became a Protestant.
"Attend the Bible class in the chapel; fifty or sixty were present, seated on their knees in Eastern style-venerable, fine-looking men wearing large round turbans. I address them in behalf of the Bible cause, visit to Egypt, the Crimea, and the Kuzelbash. They listen with much interest, and then come forward to shake me by the hand and thank the American Bible Society for sending them the Bible and gospel of salvation. It was an impressive scene as these Syrians, descendants of the old Assyrians, in
sight of the ruins of ancient Nineveh, thus expressed their gratitude for receiving the word of God at our hands.
"I was much pleased with the neat chapel and intelligent congregation. In the evening have a meeting for organizing a branch of the Evangelical Alliance. After hearing of the Turkey branch of the Alliance, and discussing the matter with much interest, they unanimously and cordially expressed their desire to form a branch, and thus be linked with Christians in all parts of the East and the world. It was a meeting of much interest. They cheerfully came forward and signed their names in Arabic to our rules and regulations-fourteen members, all who could write.
"The women wear a black mask upon their heads, which, when it is drawn, entirely conceals their face.
MONDAY, 10th. "Another very delightful morning. Ride on horseback to the Pasha's palace. Very pleasant reception by the Pasha in his audience room, overlooking the Tigris. Hamdi Pasha, a finelooking gentlemen of the modern school, heartily shook hands with us, and bid us welcome. He had not often the honor of a visit from English and Americans; entertains us with chebouks,
preserves, and coffee in oriental style. He hoped that a friendly intercourse with each other would increase; it would be to our mutual benefit. He remarked that now Mussulmans and Christians and Jews were becoming brothers. My friend said we have one Father. 'Yes,' he replied, 'Allah was Lord of all the earth; not only the God of the mountains but also of the plains.' I remarked his views were the same as the Sultan's, as declared in the Hatti humayoun. 'Yes,' said he, 'the Firman was read in Arabic and Turkish in the grand court of the palace to all the people, and it would be his object to have it fully carried out.' He greatly rejoiced in it. In comparing the present with the past great advance was made. The meaning of the word Koort was originally wolf, and it was now dog, and he hoped they would soon make it sheep. He pressed us to take a guard of his soldiers that we might pass with honor through the country. He rose as we left, and took leave of us with friendly salutations, 'salam safa guelding Khosh guelding,' -welcome, much welcome. He would do us the favor of returning our visit. Then we call upon the Deftudar Kyiah, who received us in a similar cordial manner, entertained us in the same style, and expressed the same enlightened views in regard to English and Americans. The Pasha had been six years from Stamboul, and his secretary
the same. We were greatly delighted with our visit thus far, in the interior. Call to visit the Bible dépôt, at the large new Khan of the English consulate, near the two principal gates of the city. Bibles in Arabic, Syriac, ancient and modern-a very public place and well known in the city. Copies of the Scriptures sold during the last year; 217 books, of which 34 were Scriptures and parts of Scriptures. Call upon Mrs. Rassam, wife of the English Consul; fine house, large court, garden in the centre, slabs from Nineveh in the pavement, and beautiful sedab or alabaster underground apartment below. Then visit the dispensary and see Dr. Haskel in his labors of love, prescribing for the crowd of patients of all classes, Moslems, Christians, and Jews, women, men, and children, who daily come to him. They average forty or fifty each day. The system is first to preach the gospel to them, and then give them medicine for their diseasesArabs from the desert, Koords from the moun tains, Moslems and Christians from the city.
"Mosul has a population of 45,000; Moslems 36,000; Christians 7,500; 1,500 Jews; about two-fifths ancient Syrians or Jacobites; two. fifths Chaldeans or Papal Nestorians; one-fifth Papal Syrians; 180 enrolled in the Protestant community; fifteen church members; attendance at service (average fifty-five); language used