sent word to the crew to come, but they replied that they would not; that we might buy the boat if we chose, but that they would not navigate her: at the same time they said that they were people who did not value their lives a pigeon, and would take ours for half a one. While all this was passing, we observed the natives assembling in every direction, armed with spears, swords, and daggers; every minute they were arriving from all quarters on asses, and always going to the rendezvous under the sackey, where our vile crew had it in their power to tell any falsehoods against us without our being able to confute them, as neither our Arab cook, the Greek servant, or janissary understood the Barbarin language. Several of the Barbarins now came to see what arms we had, and appeared to take an exact account of everything in the shape of a weapon; for seeing affairs in this posture, we had prepared for the worst, and laid we crossed over to Elpha, the way to which place leads through several intricate passages, amongst rocks and shoals, where the current runs with great rapidity. In one part we were obliged to pass close under a high bluff, with some ruined houses on it: it was not necessary to pass through this intricate passage, our boatmen took it when we were all asleep, and we only perceived our situation on awaking at Elpha. We here found that neither asses nor camels had arrived to take us up to the temple, the reason assigned for this was, that the price agreed on the day before, at three piastres for each animal was not enough, though the person who made the agreement was there. We now endeavoured to procure beasts of the inhabitants, but they haggled so much about the price that we could make nothing of them. While this was going on, our crew, reis and all, took their clothes, arms, and effects out of the boat, and walked off to a sackey,* about 20 yards' dis-out all our arms in readiness, with tance, on the banks of the river: here they squatted down amongst a considerable number of natives; we had not taken notice of this proceeding, as their clothes, &c. were all kept abaft, behind the end of our cabin. When we could not agree for the asses, &c., we said we did not want them, and would go back to Abou-Simbel; with this intention we called the reis, and desired him to get the bark ready to return, but received an immediate answer that "neither he nor his crew would come." When we sent to know the reason of their refusal, they replied, that we must give them more money for the boat before they would come on board: they also said that we had never fed them, nor had we given them backsheeish, and when we reminded them of what they had received at Derry, they said that was nothing. We now threatened to go off with the boat, and for that purpose rigged the oars across, but the wind being strong against us, we did not get under weigh. When the oars were ready we *Sackey is the Persian wheel with which they raise water from the river; it is described by Burckhardt, Norden, and other travellers. which, fortunately, we were well provided. After a little time a message came from the crew that they wanted money; we sent them word that they must first come and do their duty; that as soon as the boat was off from this place, they should have a backsheeish, but not one para till they had done their duty. They now sent word that we had absolutely starved them, which was no doubt what they told the natives; they also informed us, that at this very place they had beaten Jacques Rifaud during his last voyage, and that it was done in the presence of the sheikh of the place, and all the natives; and that they had made him pay fifty piastres for the stick they had broken over his head. At Derry they had talked to us about his generosity. At this moment several of the natives came down demanding backsheeish, backsheeish, in a threatening manner. We asked the reason why we should give them money? They replied, for seeing the cataract, and coming into their country. A loaded musket was now pointed at them, and they were asked if they wanted money by force or good means; on which they retired, not stir up the natives to any acts of saying la, la, la, no, no, no, evidently violence, they returned to the boat, all not liking the sight of fire-arms. We now told them, that if we had seen the cataract without paying, so they had seen us without giving us anything as a recompense, though we were as novel a sight to them as their cataract was to us, and therefore we were quits. Some of the most impudent now came down, and on being refused money said we should wait where we were till the high Nile: that we should neither go upward or downward, laughing and hooting at the same time; our villanous crew all this while sitting under the sackey, and enjoying the storm they had raised against us. To all their threats we constantly replied, that we were well armed, were determined not to be robbed, and that should they come to extremities, we would certainly make good use of our fire-arms, which we took care they should all see were pretty numerous and loaded. The asses were now brought, and the people endeavoured to persuade us to go off to the temple, evidently in the hope of plundering the boat when we were gone. We saw through this trick, and positively refused to go. We also told the natives, that though we were few in number, we had the firman of the pasha, and that any violence offered to us would be sure to be well punished. Those who had brought the asses now asked some remuneration for their trouble, as we had refused to hire them. This we thought reasonable; and, to draw off their attention, (for there were about forty of them), we gave eight piastres to be divided amongst the claimants. The division of this money turned affairs very much in our favour; for they began to quarrel amongst one another immediately. armed, having their daggers fastened to the left arm above the elbow joint, the manner in which all the Nubians wear that weapon. As soon as the boat was ready, they asked for the money, when we gave them fifteen piastres. Before we were off, however, one of the Farras people came to be rewarded for endeavouring to hire the asses at that place, or rather for disappointing us. We offered him five piastres, which he indignantly refused; but seeing he could get no one to assist him in forcing us to give more (for all these people are impudent and bullying for their own interest, but never for another's), came back and said he would take the five: this we now refused; when he went off in a violent rage, uttering threats that we should hear more of him below. After this, we got off from this infamous place, and soon found what a trap they had set for us; for it was with the utmost difficulty that even the crew could get the boat through the numerous narrow passages, all of them being obliged to get out into the river, and guide her through amongst the rocks; and we were also forced to pass directly under the bluff before mentioned, where the natives, had we ourselves taken the boat off, would have annoyed us greatly, while they would have been sheltered behind the ruined village. Indeed our crew wished us above all things to take the boat off, that they might represent us to the inhabitants as robbers, stealing their bark. However, we saw through all this. July 4.-We arrived at Abou-Simbel, and found that no message whatever had been received from the cashiefs at Derry. This was a sad disappointment to us. Our crew, now dreading the presence of the chiefs, came to beg forgiveness; saying that they had forgotten and forgiven everything, and hoped that we had. They said they would behave well in future The crew now thinking that they should get nothing for themselves, sent a messenger, while the natives were disputing about the division of the eight piastres, to say they would come and prepare the boat provided they had the" that they were poor, and always backsheeish. We repeated our terms, that they should have a present when they did their duty. Seeing they could made a practice to get all they could from passengers and strangers." They remarked, "that dogs, when repulsed, always made a practice of returning to get something as long as there was anything to be had." This appears to be a favourite proverb amongst them. July 6. We visited the small temple opposite Abou-Simbel on the south side of the river. This temple is excavated in the solid mountain; the entrance is situated on the side of a rocky precipice, which below slopes into the river: there are some remains of steps cut in the rock as an approach to it. The principal chamber is 10 paces long, by 9 wide: it is supported by four pillars, two on each side of the passage. In the centre, at the further end of the apartment, there is on each side a doorway communicating with side chambers, 9 paces by 4 each. The sanctuary at the end of the principal chamber is 6 paces by 4; this is the most common mode of construction in the Egyptian temples. At present the interior of this temple appears daubed all over with dirty plaster and Greek paintings, mostly representing men on horseback. Behind these, however, we easily discovered the Egyptian figures, hieroglyphics, &c. &c., in bas-relief on stucco. As most of the figures represent men with hawks' heads, we think this temple was dedicated to Osiris; and afterwards, perhaps, converted into a church of St. George. The sanctuary has been once ornamented, but the side apartments are plain. There is a small subterraneous chamber below the sanctuary, apparently intended for a sepulchre. July 7.-A messenger on a dromedary arrived from Daoud Cashief to learn "if we were the same English for whom Hassan Cashief had promised to open the temple;" at the same time he sent word, that if we were the same persons he would immediately come himself; but if not, he knew what to do. The latter part of the message alluded to the French, who had used every effort to get Hassan Cashief to allow them to open the temple after Mr. Belzoni's first attempt in 1816. Mr. Belzoni, however, had fortunately, after his first effort, sent Hassan and his two sons a turban each, and some other presents, in Mr. Salt's name: this he did to bind them to their promise, and they certainly deserve credit for keeping it. It ought to be mentioned, also, that Mr. Drovetti, in the early part of 1816, on his way to the second cataract, before Mr. Belzoni's arrival in Nubia, had contracted with Hassan Cashief to open the temple, for 300 piastres, and left the money; Hassan promising that Mr. Drovetti should find it ready opened on his return from the falls: however, when he came back, his money was returned, the chief candidly telling him he could not undertake the task for so small a sum. As Mr. Drovetti would not go to a greater expense, the field now became open to any one else who chose to attempt the enterprise. On July 6.-In the morning we started early with two of the natives in search of a temple which they said was in the neighbouring mountains, about a "pipe" distant; for it is common among them to estimate a short journey by the number of pipes they can smoke during its performance. our way we met two white gazelles ; they were very timid; the belly and tail were perfectly white. After walking about an hour, we came to the mountains, where, having waited about two hours more, our conductors came and said, they could not find the temple, though the evening before they had described the size and every particular of it. In the evening we had a violent quarrel with the crew in consequence of their drawing their daggers on our servants. We told them that the first who drew his dagger should be severely punished: this threat, however, had so little effect, that one of them who had murdered his own brother at Phila (for which reason he did not dare to go near the island, but was taken into our boat at a village above it), said he would be the first, and swore by Alla and the Prophet that he would have one of our lives; adding, that his method was not to attack people awake, but to stab them sleeping. We laughed at their threats, and told them they were more apt at talking of these matters than in doing them. July 10.-To-day the two cashiefs, Daoud and Halleel, arrived. They did not come to us, nor send any message to apprise us of their arrival; but pitched their tents, formed of a few date sticks, the roof covered with grass, on the sand-bank at the riverside here they waited till we should make our appearance. We accordingly set out to visit these potentates. The first tent we entered was Halleel's: he was a tall, handsome man, about thirty-six years of age, 6 ft. high, very corpulent, and had a fine expressive countenance, with dark eyes: his dress was a large, loose, white linen shirt, with long sleeves hanging down nearly 2 feet, an old turban, and slippers. He received us courteously, and immediately conducted us to the tent of his elder brother Daoud, who also gave us a very good reception. Daoud Cashief is rather taller than his brother, but not so fat. He is about forty-five years of age, and had a certain dignity and reserve in his demeanour that bespoke the chief: he wore a loose blue shirt. We were not long in bringing forward the subject of the temple, when he immediately said he would willingly give us his assistance to have it opened. Pancakes of flour and butter-milk were now brought, on which we all feasted, making use of fingers instead of spoons. Coffee was served, or rather a substitute for that beverage, which is not unpalatable; they call it gargadan: it is a small black grain, not unlike the English rape-seed; this they burn and pound like coffee, and it would puzzle those who are not connoisseurs to find out the difference. such as gunpowder, soap, tobacco, coffee, sugar, &c. To Halleel a turban and smaller articles, equal in value to those which his brother had received. We then took our leave; but had scarce reached our boat when we heard that Halleel was highly offended because he had not received a gun as well as his brother. We immediately went back and endeavoured to appease him, explaining that we were not aware that he was a cashief, or we would certainly have brought him a gun as well as Daoud: indeed, the preceding year, when Mr. Belzoni was in Nubia, the younger brother had not assumed the title of cashief, nor was he treated as such. We promised that if he would have patience, and confide in our word, we would send him a gun exactly the same as his brother's; or, if he preferred it, we would give him one of our own; though we confessed we had none half so good as that was, and advised him to wait till we got another, as he would lose much by accepting a bad one. All was, however, in vain ; he would not be appeased, but sat sulky in the corner, saying, he had better guns than ours, and that he knew what to do in his own country; meaning that we should not open the temple. This was an unexpected blow to our hopes: we began to despair; and seeing nothing would please him, we retired. A message now came from Daoud to invite us to partake of a sheep he had killed in order to regale us. We went to his tent. Halleel was not there. We noticed this, and expressed our concern at the displeasure he had evinced. Daoud said his brother was only a boy; that he was indiscreet, and did not know what he did, and that we need not mind him. The two chiefs dwelt much on the We sent a message to him to say we attempts which the French had made would not eat unless he came and ate to induce them to consent to the tem- with us, but he refused. Daoud now, ple's being opened, appearing to take at our request, went to bring him; great merit to themselves for having but returned unsuccessful, saying, he resisted all the offers that were made was only a boy, and that he pledged to them. The presents were now himself we should open the temple. brought, and given in the name of However, as Halleel was evidently of Mr. Salt: to Daoud a handsome gun, a mischievous disposition, and likely which at Cairo cost 500 piastres; a to do us injury, indirectly, if not turban which cost 50; and some trifles, | directly, we judged it the best policy to bring about a reconciliation. Mr. Belzoni accordingly went himself; and, after much difficulty, prevailed on him to come: he, however, was still sulky; and we had scarce sat down to dinner, when three strangers, apparently newly arrived, entered the tent, kneeled and kissed hands, paying their respects to Halleel before they saluted Daoud. We easily saw through this little trick, which was a concerted plan between the two brothers, to induce us to give Halleel more presents, from a supposition that his rank was equal to his brother's. The men belonged to the suite, and were disguised for the purpose. The chiefs told us we were to have sixty men, and we paid for that number; but only fifty came. We were obliged also to give them doura, as they all complained of having nothing to eat. However, we were so anxious about the temple, that we were glad to give them anything, provided they would but work. I shall proceed to describe the object of our research, and explain where it was situated, how formed, and the manner in which the mysterious door was hidden from our view. The temple is situated on the side of the Nile, between 200 and 300 yards from its western bank; it stands upon an elevation, and its base After we had retired from dinner, is considerably above the level of the we went to see if Halleel was still dis- river. It is excavated in the mountain, pleased, and found him as sulky as and its front presents a flat surface of ever; our crew and Hassan having upwards of 60 feet in height, above the been with him from the first moment summit of the sand immediately over of his ill-humour, and doing all in their the door, but not so much as 40 on power to put him against us, for which the north side, and a little more on Daoud had reprimanded them severely. the south; the breadth is 117 feet. Perceiving there was no pleasing him; Above 30 feet of the height of the that neither presents nor promises temple, from the base, is covered by were of any avail, we returned to the the accumulated sand in the centre, boat; Daoud having pledged his word and about 50 feet on either side. The that we should commence our opera- surface fronting the river is hemmed tions the following morning. Late in in by a mountain of sand leaning the evening we received a message against it; and the door in the centre from Halleel, requesting a gun, with is buried beneath this sand, which rises some powder and shot; we immediately on each side of it, increasing the labour gave him ours, which, though good for and difficulty of digging in a prodigious nothing, was, nevertheless, the best-degree: for no sooner is the sand in looking one we had. the centre removed, than that on either side pours down, so that to gain a foot in the centre, we had to remove the whole mass of sand which leaned against the temple; this sand also was of so'fine a description, that every particle of it would go through an hour-glass. In front of the temple are four sitting colossal figures cut out of the solid mountain, chairs and all: they are, however, brought out so fully, that the backs do not touch the wall, but are full eight feet from it; and were it not for a narrow ridge of the rock which joins them to the surface, from the back part of the necks downwards, they would be wholly detached. This prompt compliance calmed his anger; and we began to congratulate ourselves on the prospect of ultimate success. The only remaining difficulty now was to make the agreement with the workmen. The Farras man, who told us at Elpha "that we should hear of him below," now made his appearance, and endeavoured all he could to thwart our proceedings we, however, took him to the cashiefs, and explained his conduct to them, on which they reprimanded him. After much altercation, we were glad to agree for the men to work at two piastres each per day. July 11.-In the morning the two cashiefs came on board, and we proceeded to the temple, about a quarter of an hour's row from the village. One of the statues has been broken off by a fracture of the mountain, from the waist upwards. There were ori |